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Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
Last weekend Dave Birkett climbed what is being hailed as one of the most important new winter routes in Britain's Lake District for the last quarter of a century, Never Ever Say Never VIII 8 or E7 5c on Scafell's...
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first...
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
28/03/2009 - Alpinism
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and...
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
07/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and...
Rêve Caché, new route on Mont Blanc
07/10/2008 - Alpinism
Rêve Caché, new route on Mont Blanc
On 29/09/08 Enrico Bonino and Paolo Stroppiana made the first ascent of Rêve Caché (700m, 5+ MR 4c) up the east face of Pointe d'Androsace, located in the Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc.
Renzino Cosson, Mont Blanc du Tacul and the law of nature and the mountains
27/08/2008 - Alpinism
Renzino Cosson, Mont Blanc du Tacul and the law of nature and the mountains
Interview with Renzino Cosson, mountaineer, mountain guide and Mont Blanc expert after the accident on Mont Blanc du Tacul which cost the lives of 8 mountaineers on Sunday 24 August. An occasion and analysis of the “rules” of nature and...
Gerard Pailheiret, ice climbing interview
25/01/2008 - Interviews
Gerard Pailheiret, ice climbing interview
Interview by Elio Bonfanti with the French mountain guide Gerard Pailheiret who has always carried out been a tireless promoter of ice climbing.
Kammerlander and Unterkircher summit Jasemba (7350m) Nepal
24/05/2007 - Alpinism
Kammerlander and Unterkircher summit Jasemba (7350m) Nepal
At 15.00 on 22/05 Hans Kammerlander and Karl Unterkircher made the first ascent of the south Face of Jasemba (7350m, Nepal).
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face...
Parimbelli repeats Damocle, Moro frees Open Day
20/01/2006 - Alpinism
Parimbelli repeats Damocle, Moro frees Open Day
On 12 January Yuri Parimbelli made the first repeat of Damocle, the superb ice drip first ascended by Simone Moro in 2000 in Valleve, Valle Brembana, N. Italy. Simone Moro has made the first ascent of Open Day.
Ciao Patrick, new route on Khali Himal
06/05/2004 - Alpinism
Ciao Patrick, new route on Khali Himal
The report by Simone Moro eand details of the new route on the North Face of Khali Himal - Baruntse North (7066m), Nepal.
The Crystal Snake of Nuptse
28/10/2003 - Alpinism
The Crystal Snake of Nuptse
In spring 2003 Damian Benegas and Willie Benegas made the first ascent of The Crystal Snake 5.9 M4 WI5 up the North Face of Nuptse, 7855m, close to Everest.
Christoph Hainz, 4 hours 30 minutes for the Eiger North Face
24/04/2003 - Interviews
Christoph Hainz, 4 hours 30 minutes for the Eiger North Face
Christoph Hainz talks about his speed ascent up the North Face of the Eiger in 4 hours and 30 minutes.
New route on Roccia Nera, Monte Rosa
14/04/2003 - Alpinism
New route on Roccia Nera, Monte Rosa
On 28/02/2003 the two Italian mountain guides Roberto Rossi and Ivano Bianchi opened a newline up the North Face of Roccia Nera (4075 m, Monte Rosa).
Ice climbing belays / How to construct belays on ice as safely as possible.
04/04/2003 - Alpinism
Ice climbing belays / How to construct belays on ice as safely as possible.
Ice climbing belays / How to construct belays on ice as safely as possible.

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