94 News found

You searched for: direttissima
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
25/09/2015 - Climbing
Odyssee, the hardest route on the Eiger North Face by Roger Schaeli, Robert Jasper and Simon Gietl
An international trio comprised of Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established Odyssee (8a+, 1400m), a difficult and serious new rock climb up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
Sasso di Fontana Mora: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Seriana
19/08/2015 - Climbing
Sasso di Fontana Mora: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Seriana
On Sasso Fontana Mora in Val Seriana (Bergamo Alps, Italy) Davide Rottigni and Dario Nani made the first ascent of Via 10 (7b+, 200m). A multi-pitch rock climb that joins their nearby Via 60 (7b, 200m).
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
17/08/2015 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites: new rock climb Via degli studenti up the NW Face
In August 2015 Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia and Alex Walpoth completed Via degli studenti, an important new rock climb up the legendary NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites.
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
Monte Pelmetto, Dolomites: the ski descent by Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba
Monte Pelmetto, Dolomites: the ski descent by Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba
The report of the first ski descent, carried out on 15 May 2013 by Francesco Vascellari and Loris De Barba off the summit of Monte Pelmetto in the Dolomites.
Amidst the stories of alpinism and climbing in 2013
01/01/2014 - Alpinism
Amidst the stories of alpinism and climbing in 2013
A brief and by no means complete journey through the stories and the climbs of 2013, while waiting for new year.
Wilder Kaiser, another free climb by Roland Hemetzberger
18/11/2013 - Alpinism
Wilder Kaiser, another free climb by Roland Hemetzberger
On the Fleishbank sector of the Wilder Kaiser in Austria Roland Hemetzberger has made the first free ascent of Scheffler - Siegert route, established in 1960 by Peter Siegert and Wulf Scheffler and now freed with difficulties up to UIAA...
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
08/10/2013 - Alpinism
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata introduce their variation to Li-Cuore (450m, VII+, A3, VII- obl.) that climbs between the South Tyrolean route and Via Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner (Dolomites).
Crep de Boè, new Dolomites rock climb by Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner
30/09/2013 - Climbing
Crep de Boè, new Dolomites rock climb by Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner
In late September and Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner established Scharfe Helene (VIII-, 320m), Crep de Boè (2465m), Sella, Dolomites.
Eiger Piola - Ghilini Direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
28/08/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger Piola - Ghilini direttissima, first free ascent by Japer and Schäli
On 2 August Roger Schäli and Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the Piola - Ghilini direttissima (1400m, 7c) on the north face of the Eiger.
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
19/08/2013 - Interviews
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
Patrick Gabarrou was born in 1951 close to Paris in France and the routes first climbed by this alpinist, philosopher and mountain guide are integral parts of the history of Mont Blanc. The following interview was carried out by don...
Alexey Bolotov dies on Everest
18/05/2013 - Alpinism
Alexey Bolotov dies on Everest
On 15 May Russian alpinist Alexey Bolotov died above the Khumbu Icefall on the South Face of Everest.
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
24/04/2013 - Alpinism
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
From 12 to 14 April 2013 the alpinists Dani Arnold and David Lama made the first ascent of Bird of Prey (1500m, 6a, M7+, 90°, A2) up the unclimbed headwall of Moose's Tooth in Alaska.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
24/07/2012 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
On 17 and 18 July Italian alpinist and mountain guide Rossano Libera made the first solo ascent and second repeat of the direttissima Memento Mori route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. A route and ascent which many define...
Presolana, first winter ascents of Via Paco and Via Bosio
09/04/2012 - Alpinism
Presolana, first winter ascents of Via Paco and Via Bosio
On 16/03/2012 Daniele Natali and Tito Arosio made the first winter ascent of Via Paco (7b (6c+ obligatory), 400m), while a day later Maurizio Panseri and Fulvio Zanetti made the first winter ascent of Via Bosio (7a+ (6°+ obligatory) 430m)...

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