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L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent
06/09/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent
The report by 16-year-old Slovak climber Pavel Kratochvíl who on 27/08/2017 with Róbert Luby (21) and Martin Krasňanský (34) made the first free ascent of L'or du temps, the new route put up on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, by Nina Caprez and Arnaud Petit.
Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
03/09/2017 - Alpinism
Hakuna Matata, Lisi Steurer and Hannes Pfeifhofer climb new route up Taè in Dolomites
The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber
31/08/2017 - Alpinism
Schreckhorn, new rock climb in Switzerland by Thomas Senf and Martin Reber
In July the Swiss alpinists Thomas Senf and Martin Reber made the first ascent of Freudenschreck (6a+, 485 m), a new rock climbing up the SW ridge of Schreckhorn (4078 m), Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
New Tsaranoro climb in Madagascar by Italian Ragni di Lecco
25/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Tsaranoro climb in Madagascar by Italian Ragni di Lecco
In July 2017 the Italian climbers Matteo de Zaiacomo, Dimitri Anghileri and Marco Maggioni belonging to the Ragni di lecco climbing club made the first ascent of Rivotra Mahery (strong wind) a new 700 meter rock climb with difficulties up to 8a+ on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
Riccarda de Eccher: Montagna. The Dolomites at the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, USA
23/08/2017 - Book-press
Riccarda de Eccher: Montagna. The Dolomites at the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art, USA
From 25 August to 7 October 2017 the Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art di Charleston, South Carolina (USA) will exhibit the works of alpinist and painter Riccarda de Eccher. 12 new watercolours dedicated to the Dolomites, ‘her' mountains, will be on view.
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
22/08/2017 - Alpinism
New Spanish climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
Between 2016 and 2017 a series of new rock climbs were first ascended on the Lofoten Islands, Norway, by the Spanish climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Pau Gómez, Jordi Esteve and Felix Queipo established up peaks Marklitinden, Storskiva, Merraflestinden and Moltbaertinden.
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
21/08/2017 - Alpinism
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.
Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a
19/08/2017 - Climbing
Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a
The report by Pietro Radassao who at Frosolone (Molise, Central Italy) made the first ascent of 'Iron Moon', a sport climb for which the Italian climber suggests 8c+/9a.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites
Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo offer unparalleled rock climbing throughout the Dolomites. Planetmountain.com provides an overview with some of the routes that have become milestones in the history of mountaineering, such as Spigolo Giallo, Via Comici - Dimai, Via Cassin, Hasse Brandler, Spigolo degli...
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez
Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc massif.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
15/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
14/08/2017 - Climbing
Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco
The first episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
11/08/2017 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I SW Face, big new route by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
The report by Czech mountaineer Marek Holeček who with Zdeněk Hák established over 8 days a great new route up the Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I (8080 meters), Karakorum.
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
10/08/2017 - Climbing
Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
America’s Sasha DiGiulian and Spain’s Edu Marin have made what is believed to be the second free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Hansjörg Auer: Marmolada, Piz Ciavazes and Sass dla Crusc free solo climb in a single day
01/08/2017 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer: Marmolada, Piz Ciavazes and Sass dla Crusc free solo climb in a single day
The video of Hansjörg Auer who on 8 August 2016 in the Dolomites climbed free solo the routes Vinatzer - Messner up Marmolada, Abramkante up Piz Ciavazes and Große Mauer up Sass dla Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel. The Austrian flew by paraglider from one mountain to the next and required 12...