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UP European Climbing report
19/03/2007 - Book-press
UP European Climbing report
The fourth edition of UP - European Climbing report edited by Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti and published by Versante Sud will go to press on 20 March.
Ueli Steck races the Eiger North Face in 3 hours 54 minutes
13/03/2007 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck races the Eiger North Face in 3 hours 54 minutes
On 21 February Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the north face of the Eiger in a record time of 3.54.
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
02/03/2007 - Climbing
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
At the end of December a German team led by Stefan Glowacz and Kurt Albert travelled to Venezuela where it established "Fegefeuer" IX, a new 700m route on Akopan Tepui, 2200m.
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
21/02/2007 - Alpinism
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine, Patagonia). A beautiful route, great company and a fantastic adventure...
Kiss or Kill, la recherche
04/01/2007 - Alpinism
Kiss or Kill, la recherche
On 26 December Luca Vuerich and Michele Martina made the first ascent of "Kiss or Kill" 800m, M6 up the NF of Cima Castrein (2502m) in the Jof Fuart mountain range.
Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
13/12/2006 - Alpinism
Slovenian Kyrgyzstan expedition nets new routes
Andrej Magajne from Slovenia reports of his August 2006 and 2005 expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, which resulted in four new routes in the Karakol valley in the Terskey Ala Too range.
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face of the Triangolo nero on Monte Emilius, the prime mountain...
Asia Piolet d'or awarded to Urubko and Samilov for new route on Manaslu
13/11/2006 - Alpinism
Asia Piolet d'or awarded to Urubko and Samilov for new route on Manaslu
On 10/11/2006 the Kazak mountaineers Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov won the first edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, the award created by Men and Mountain, Montagnes Magazine and Grivel for the best mountaineering achievement carried out by Asian mountaineers.
Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
28/10/2006 - Alpinism
Bitter pills for Rossando Libera and Ezio Marlier on Mount Emilius
On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first asscent of "Bocconi amari" up the north face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta.
Larcher frees Via Bepi Mazzotti on Dain
16/10/2006 - Climbing
Larcher frees Via Bepi Mazzotti on Dain
On 2 October Rolando Larcher made the first free ascent of "Via Bepi Mazzotti" on the Piccolo Dain (Sarca valley, Italy).
Annapurna summit for Mondinelli, Camandona and Confortola
13/10/2006 - Alpinism
Annapurna summit for Mondinelli, Camandona and Confortola
On 12/10 the Italians Marco Confortola, Marco Camandona and Silvio Mondinelli reached the summit of Annapurna 8091m
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
14/09/2006 - Climbing
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.
Olmo and Herry win The North Face Ultra-Trail du Tour du Mont-Blanc
28/08/2006 - Competitions
Olmo and Herry win the north face Ultra-Trail du Tour du Mont-Blanc
On 27/08/2006 Marco Olmo from Italy and Karine Herry won the 4th the north face Ultra Trail du Tour du Mont-Blanc.
Robert Jasper frees the Yeti on Eiger North Face
11/08/2006 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper frees the Yeti on Eiger North Face
On 16 July the German mountaineer Robert Jasper teamed up with Stefan Eder from Austria to make the first free ascent of Yeti, the route fist climbed in 1998 by the Italians Andrea Forlini and Gianni Faggiana on the north face of the Eiger.
Uli Biaho new route by Kopold and Cmarik
03/08/2006 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new route by Kopold and Cmarik
Dodo Kopold and Gabo Cmarik have made the f.a. of the NW Face of Uli Biaho 6417m, Karakorum, Pakistan. They also climbed a route up Hainabrakk East Tower (5800m) to 5375m.
Harald Berger skins Antihydral 8b, Rätikon
31/07/2006 - Climbing
Harald Berger skins Antihydral 8b, Rätikon
Harald Berger from Austria has just returned from the Rätikon mountain range on the Swiss/Austrian border where he has made the first ascent of "Antihydral", an old Rochus Mathis project which now goes free at 8b.

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