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New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
28/07/2009 - Alpinism
New route on the north face of the Matterhorn
Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the north face of the Matterhorn.
Stephan Siegrist frees Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North Face
26/06/2009 - Climbing
Stephan Siegrist frees Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North Face
Swiss climber Stephan Siegrist has made the first successful redpoint ascent of "Magic Mushroom" up the north face of the Eiger. The route had been established in 2007 by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz and leads up the 3219 metres high mushroom in 21 pitches and now goes free at...
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the north face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Melloblocco ready steady go!
07/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco ready steady go!
The sixth Melloblocco starts today in the splendid Val di Mello, Val Masino, Italy. Thousands of climbers gather every year at this international bouldering meeting, which will come to an end on Sunday 10 May.
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
04/05/2009 - Climbing
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11-) on Pirita Central.
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
02/05/2009 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
19/03/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
17/03/2009 - Alpinism
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
On 31/01/2009 Roberto Misson and Luca Chiarcos carried out the first ascent of "La prima volta" (60m, II 3+ M5+) at Fusine Laghi (Tarvisio).
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Alex Honnold climbing interview
27/01/2009 - Interviews
Alex Honnold climbing interview
Interview with Alex Honnold, the American climber who burst into international limelight with his solos in America and hard extremes on Britain's gritstone.
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
23/01/2009 - Interviews
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
Interview with Ueli Steck from Switzerland after his 13 January speed climb of the Matterhorn in a record 1 hour 56 minutes via the Schmidt route.
Ines Papert and Cory Richards add new route to Kwangde Shar, Nepal
19/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ines Papert and Cory Richards add new route to Kwangde Shar, Nepal
Ines Papert debuts in the Himalaya with Cory Richards and forges 'Cobra Norte' (WI5, M8, TD & R) up the north face of Kwangde Shar 6093m, Nepal, Himalaya.
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
07/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and climbing all three great North Faces of the Alps in...
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
18/11/2008 - Alpinism
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
Last summer Ales Holc, Matej Smrkolj e Tadej Kriselj carried out the first ascent of Slovenian birthday party (TD+, 1000m) on the north face of Pik Parashutny 5360m. Tine Marence and Andrej Magajne carried out the probabile first repeat of thee Slovenian Route on Pik Troglav and a quick ascent...
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
10/11/2008 - Alpinism
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
Japanese mountaineers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano have received the 3rd Piolet d'or Asia for their new route up the N Face of Kalanka (Garhwal, India, Himalaya).

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