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Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the north face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    21/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
    In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the north face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    12/04/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    30/03/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
    Khumbu new climbs
    17/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Khumbu new climbs
    At the end of 2009 Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Melis and Francesco Cantù establised three new routes in the Khumbu valley, Nepal.
    Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
    11/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
    Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.
    Simon Anthamatten interview
    08/02/2010 - Interviews
    Simon Anthamatten interview
    Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
    Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
    04/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
    Italian alpinist Claudio Corti died during the night of 3 February at the age of 81 at his home in Lecco. He will be remembered as a member of the Gruppo Ragni della Grignetta but also as a man who knew how to tackle great tests, both in the mountains...
    Krakow Mountain Festival
    04/01/2010 - Events
    Krakow Mountain Festival
    Dorota Dubicka takes a look at the event which took place in Poland at the strat of December and attracted over 5000 visitors.
    Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
    02/12/2009 - Alpinism
    Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
    From 20 - 22 November the Italians Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantù carried out the first ascent of "Ramri Keti" (1100m, WI5+/M7/5a) up the north face of Hama Jomjuma (5970m, Khumbu, Nepal).
    La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
    01/12/2009 - Climbing
    La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
    Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the north face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
    Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
    13/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
    The details of the first ascent of the 1800m high North Face of Chang Himal, Kanchenjunga Himalaya, Nepal, climbed in a five day alpine-style push by the British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman at ED+.
    Ekaitz Maiz climbs new 9a at Etxauri, Spain
    28/10/2009 - Climbing
    Ekaitz Maiz climbs new 9a at Etxauri, Spain
    Ekaitz Maiz has made the first ascent of Basapiztien eremua 9a at Etxauri, Spain.
    Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
    16/10/2009 - Climbing
    Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
    Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
    Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
    18/09/2009 - Climbing
    Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
    Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the north face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
    Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
    25/08/2009 - Climbing
    Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
    On 14/07/2009 Manfred Stuffer soloed the routes Geo, Regenbogen, Quo Vadis, Brusin and Brugger Walde on the Sella, Dolomites, in a mere 3.5 hours.

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