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Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Alex Honnold climbing interview
27/01/2009 - Interviews
Alex Honnold climbing interview
Interview with Alex Honnold, the American climber who burst into international limelight with his solos in America and hard extremes on Britain's gritstone.
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
23/01/2009 - Interviews
Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours
Interview with Ueli Steck from Switzerland after his 13 January speed climb of the Matterhorn in a record 1 hour 56 minutes via the Schmidt route.
Ines Papert and Cory Richards add new route to Kwangde Shar, Nepal
19/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ines Papert and Cory Richards add new route to Kwangde Shar, Nepal
Ines Papert debuts in the Himalaya with Cory Richards and forges 'Cobra Norte' (WI5, M8, TD & R) up the north face of Kwangde Shar 6093m, Nepal, Himalaya.
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
07/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre
On 28 December 2008 Ueli Steck from Switzerland climbed the classic Colton - Macintyre route up the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in in a mere 2 hours and 21 minutes, setting a new record for the wall and climbing all three great North Faces of the Alps in...
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
18/11/2008 - Alpinism
Slovenian climbs in Central Tien Shan
Last summer Ales Holc, Matej Smrkolj e Tadej Kriselj carried out the first ascent of Slovenian birthday party (TD+, 1000m) on the north face of Pik Parashutny 5360m. Tine Marence and Andrej Magajne carried out the probabile first repeat of thee Slovenian Route on Pik Troglav and a quick ascent...
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
10/11/2008 - Alpinism
3rd Piolet d'or Asia to Japanese Kalanka team
Japanese mountaineers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano have received the 3rd Piolet d'or Asia for their new route up the N Face of Kalanka (Garhwal, India, Himalaya).
New route on Nuptse by Benoist and Glairon-Rappaz
06/11/2008 - Alpinism
New route on Nuptse by Benoist and Glairon-Rappaz
On 28 October the French mountaineers Stephane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz reached the summit of Nuptse (7861m, Khumbu, Himalaya) via a new route up the grandiose South Face.
Rêve Caché, new route on Mont Blanc
07/10/2008 - Alpinism
Rêve Caché, new route on Mont Blanc
On 29/09/08 Enrico Bonino and Paolo Stroppiana made the first ascent of Rêve Caché (700m, 5+ MR 4c) up the east face of Pointe d'Androsace, located in the Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc.
K2, an end and a never ending story
06/08/2008 - Alpinism
K2, an end and a never ending story
Italian mountaineer Marco Confortola has been transported by helicopter down to valley. People are now slowly beginning to think about what happened during these last few days on K2.
Broad Peak new route by Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev
27/07/2008 - Alpinism
Broad Peak new route by Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev
On 17/07/2008 the Russians Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) after having climbed a new route up the northwest face of the 12th highest mountain in the world.
China closes Everest for 'cleanup' in spring 2009
08/07/2008 - Environment
China closes Everest for 'cleanup' in spring 2009
The Tibetan Environmental Protection Bureau has announced the closure of the northern side of Mount Everest in an effort to clean up the rubbish abandoned on the mountain.
House and Anderson climb new route on Mt. Alberta, Canada
02/04/2008 - Alpinism
House and Anderson climb new route on Mt. Alberta, Canada
The Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House have opened a new route up the north face of Mt. Alberta (3619m), Rockies, Canada. The due climbed alpine style for three days and graded their new line WI5+ M8 R/X.
Frenesi new route on Pena Telera for Bereziartu and Otegui
27/03/2008 - Alpinism
Frenesi new route on Pena Telera for Bereziartu and Otegui
On 14 March Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegui made the first ascent of Frenesi (M6/7, 450m) on the north face of Peña Telera (2764 m).
Mastro Lindo and Linea d'ombra, Gran Vernel, Marmolada Dolomites
27/03/2008 - Alpinism
Mastro Lindo and Linea d'ombra, Gran Vernel, Marmolada Dolomites
Two routes in the Dolomites on the Gran Vernel buttress, Marmolada: Linea d'ombra 7a+ and Mastro Lindo 7a+.

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