212 News found

14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.

24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer 30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.

28/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada British mountaineer Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the entire west ridge of Mount Waddington in Canada’s Coast Mountains, climbed with Ian Welsted alpine style from 3 to 7 August 2019. On 22 July the duo climbed the North Face of Mount Phillips in the Canadian Rockies.

09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.

22/07/2019 - Alpinism
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required...

19/07/2019 - Alpinism
Janez Svoljšak, goodbye to the promising climber from Slovenia Slovenian alpinist Janez Svoljšak passed away on 15 July at base camp while on an expedition to climb Tahu Rutum (6650m), Karakorum, Pakistan. The promising mountaineer was just 25 years old.

05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs 58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...

27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in alaska Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.

20/06/2019 - Alpinism
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in alaska Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, alaska.

07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.

01/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.

24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.

19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.

08/04/2019 - Alpinism
Canada’s Mount Fay East Face finally climbed by Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič, Ines Papert From 2 - 3 April 2019 Brette Harrington, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert made the first ascent of The Sound of Silence (1100m, M8 WI5) up Mount Fay in the Alberta Rockies, Canada. This is the first route to climb the entire East Face.

18/09/2018 - Alpinism
Devil's Paw in alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face Mountain climbing in alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden have made the first ascent of Shaa Téix’i (1300m, 5.11a) up the West Face of the Devils Paw, Juneau Ice Cap.
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