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New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
19/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
  • Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are descending to 6100m where they will be rescued by Pakistani military helicopters
  • Russian mountaineer Sergey Nilov is reported missing on Gasherbrum IV after a serac collapsed. Climbing partners Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are injured and awaiting evacuation.
  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo 'Space Vertigo' repeated by Felix Kiem, Patrick Tirler
    14/08/2024 - Alpinism
    Tre Cime di Lavaredo 'Space Vertigo' repeated by Felix Kiem, Patrick Tirler
    Felix Kiem and Patrick Tirler have made the first repeat of 'Space Vertigo' on Cima Ovest at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The young alpinists from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed the route ground-up from 23- 25 July 2024. The 710m, IX+/X- multipitch was first ascended by...
    Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
    02/08/2024 - Alpinism
    Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
    Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.
    Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
    18/07/2024 - Competitions
    Lijuan Deng & Ludovico Fossali win Speed Climbing gold in Briançon
    The fourth stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Lijuan Deng of China and Ludovico Fossali of Italy.
    Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
    10/07/2024 - Climbing
    Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
    Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...
    Farewell to Keita Kurakami
    29/06/2024 - Climbing
    Farewell to Keita Kurakami
    Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
    Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
    28/06/2024 - Competitions
    Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
    Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...
    Alex Rohr: progress is everything
    26/06/2024 - Climbing
    Alex Rohr: progress is everything
    The documentary 'Project Breakthrough', created by John Thornton, tells the story of how the Swiss climber Alexander Rohr breaks the 9a barrier with three top-level challenges: the first pitch of 'Change' (9a+/b) at Flatanger in Norway, 'La Castagne' (9a+) and 'Eagle 4' (9b) at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France.
    Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
    25/06/2024 - Alpinism
    Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days
    Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel climbed 30 fourthousanders during the first 10 days of their XPeaks project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps within 72 days.
    New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
    18/06/2024 - Alpinism
    New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
    Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
    Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
    11/06/2024 - Alpinism
    Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
    With their ascent of Aletschhorn earlier today, Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel have embarked on their project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps. The pair will travel from one mountain to the next on foot, skis or by paraglider and hope to complete...
    Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
    23/05/2024 - Alpinism
    Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
    We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
    Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
    20/05/2024 - Alpinism
    Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
    Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
    Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
    02/04/2024 - Interviews
    Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
    Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
    La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
    27/03/2024 - Environment
    La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
    The Italian La Venta association reports about its first expedition to explore the Qanaf Cave and depths of the desert plateau of Jabal Samḥān in southern Oman.

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