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Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
20/05/2019 - Interviews
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
Interview with Christian Sordo, mountain guide and one of the driving forces behind Dolorock, the international climbing meeting that will take place from 24 to 26 May 2019 in Höhlensteintal, close to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo / Drei Zinnen,...
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Jonathan Siegrist in Spain sends 9b again, La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario
10/05/2019 - Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist in Spain sends 9b again, La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario
US sport climber Jonathan Siegrist has climbed La planta de Shiva at Villanueva del Rosario, the 9b freed by Adam Ondra and repeated so far by only Jakob Schubert and Angela Eiter.
Enrico Baistrocchi: Japan, climbing, respect
06/05/2019 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi: Japan, climbing, respect
Enrico Baistrocchi shares his experience in Japan, where he worked as route setter for the Pump Climbing gyms. His sojourn in the Land of the Rising Sun revealed some secrets, first and foremost respect.
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
03/05/2019 - Alpinism
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain,...
Zion Canyon new rock climb by Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler
23/04/2019 - Alpinism
Zion Canyon new rock climb by Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler
Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler have made the first ascent of Moonshadow, a big new climb to the right of the famous Moonlight Buttress in Zion, USA.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The...
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.
David Lama mountain moments compilation 2018
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama mountain moments compilation 2018
A year of top level mountaineering and climbing by Austrian alpinist David Lama, which culminated in his solo first ascent of Lunag Ri in the Himalaya.
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Mamichula, Adam Ondra’s 9b at Oliana
16/04/2019 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Mamichula, Adam Ondra’s 9b at Oliana
Yesterday at Oliana in Spain French rock climber Seb Bouin made the first repeat of Mamichula, the 9b sports climbed first ascended in 2017 by Adam Ondra.
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
05/04/2019 - Climbing
Lucien Martinez masters Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse
French sports climber Lucien Martinez has made the third ascent of Three Degrees of Separation at Céüse, after Chris Sharma in 2007 and Adam Ondra in 2015.
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
03/04/2019 - Alpinism
New Arco multipitch rock climb at Mandrea
On the Mandrea rock face above Arco (Valle del Sarca, Italy) Ivan Maghella and Alessandro Arduini have made the first ascent of Testa tra le nuvole (270m, 7a+ max, 6c S2 obbl.), a new multi-pitch bolted rock climb. Arduini reports.
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
30/03/2019 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
While Yuji Hirayama has made the first ascent of his 8c+ project in Japan aged 50, in Spain 30-year-old Sachi Amma has redpointed his third 9b, Stoking the fire at Santa Linya.
Nadine Wallner picture-perfect on Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs
27/03/2019 - Climbing
Nadine Wallner picture-perfect on Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs
After Barbara Zangerl, Austrian freeride skier and rock climber Nadine Wallner has now made the second female ascent of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad testpiece first ascended by Beat Kammerlander at Bürs