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Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Rock climbing in Squamish, Canada
18/06/2010 - Climbing
Rock climbing in Squamish, Canada
Millie Evans introduces the delights of rock climbing in Squamish, Canada with plenty of hands-on advice and three climbs on Stawamus Chief.
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the south face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild south face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro
24/05/2010 - Alpinism
Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro
On 23 May Silvio Mondinelli, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Abele Blanc, Michele Enzio and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Everest from Tibet. On 22 May Simone Moro reached the summit, once again with the use of supplementary oxygen.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    12/04/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    30/03/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    30/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Matterhorn south face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the south face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    26/03/2010 - Climbing
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    03/03/2010 - Climbing
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the south face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
    Simon Anthamatten interview
    08/02/2010 - Interviews
    Simon Anthamatten interview
    Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.
    Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
    23/01/2010 - Alpinism
    Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
    On 22 January 2010, 34 year old Italian mountaineer Luca Vuerich was killed by an avalanche while climbing an icefall at Prisojinik, close to Kranjska Gora on the Italian-Slovenian border. Vuerich was rescued and transported to hospital in Udine, where he died of his injuries.
    Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
    04/12/2009 - Climbing
    Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
    Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the south face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
    Tomaz Humar
    19/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Tomaz Humar
    The charismatic Slovenian climber who became one of the world's leading mountaineers, remembered by British journalist Ed Douglas.
    Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
    14/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
    This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the south face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
    Tomaz Humar rescue attempt in Nepal
    12/11/2009 - Alpinism
    Tomaz Humar rescue attempt in Nepal
    A rescue team belonging to the Swiss Mountain Rescue Station Air Zermatt is on its way to Nepal to try to help Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar. Humar is injured and stranded at about 6300 meters on Langtang Lirung’s north face since earlier this week and Air Zermatt is appealing...

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