645 News found

Interview with Adam Ondra after his first ascent of La Capella at Siurana, Spain, which the 18-year-old from the Czech Republic has tentatively graded 9b

On 01/02/2011 Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz and Thomas Scalise Meynet carried out the first repeat of Papillon (250m IV, 4, M6, 5°) a great modern mixed journey first ascended in 2003 in Valle d'Aosta above Brissogne by Alex Busca, Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina.

A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.

Two new icefalls in the Floitental (Zillertal), Austria: Excalibur (WI6/R, 120m, Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair 30/01/2011) and Quasimodo (M7 WI7, 90m, Benedikt Purner & Klaus Pietersteiner 03/02/2011).

During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.

During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.

On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...

Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.

Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.

Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.

Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45

The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.

On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).

Two new routes on SSW shoulder of Aiguille de l'Eveque, Le manteau de l'Eveque (240m, 7a max, 6b+ oblig) and Les Pèlerins et la Dame (200m, 6c/A0, 6a+ oblig) first ascended in july and August 2010 by Elio Bonfanti and Rinaldo Roetti and introduced by Bonfanti.

On 14/08/2010 Iker Pou repeated "Pan Aroma" 8c on the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites

In July the South Tyroleans Kurt Astner and Christoph Hainz freed their Pressknödl (400m, 7c) on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.