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Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident
30/04/2017 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck dies in Everest accident
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck has died near Mount Everest. The body of the 40-year-old ace mountaineer was found close to Camp 1 on the nearby Nuptse Face, where he was acclimatising for one of the most incredible mountaineering projects in the Himalaya: the Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
17/04/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley, Patagonia. Luca Schiera reports
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
07/04/2017 - Interviews
Ueli Steck and the great Everest - Lhotse traverse / Pioneering mountaineering
Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck on the eve of departure for Nepal where he will attempt to complete one of the most amitious projects in Himalayan mountaineering: the coveted first Everest - Lhotse traverse.
Solo by Mike Hoover, Yosemite and climbing in the 70's
29/03/2017 - Climbing
solo by Mike Hoover, Yosemite and climbing in the 70's
The film solo by Mike Hoover, nominated as best documentary short for the 1973 Oscars, providing interesting insight into the meaning of climbing and mountaineering in the 1970s.
Heinz Zak & Separate Reality - the film of his Yosemite free solo
22/03/2017 - Climbing
Heinz Zak & Separate Reality - the film of his Yosemite free solo
12 years ago Austrian climber and photographer Heinz Zak made the second free solo of Separate Reality, one of the most famous rock climbs in Yosemite Valley, USA. The film of this audacious ascent, which followed that of Wolfgang Güllich in 1986, is called 'Träume sterben nie', Dreams never die.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
20/03/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
Winter mountaineering: on 17/03/2017 the alpinists Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben completed the traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo - Drei Zinnen - in the Dolomites, climbing Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima in 9 hours 15 minutes. This is certainly the first...
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
16/03/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
In summer 2016 German rock climber made the first free ascent of Ganesha, a seven-pitch 8c he had established alone up the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Alm in Austria. Buhl climbed rope solo.
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
15/03/2017 - Climbing
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a pioneer and advocate of clean climbing, i.e. without pegs and...
Pedra Longa in Sardinia / The Spigolo dell'Ospitalità rock climb
13/03/2017 - Climbing
Pedra Longa in Sardinia / The Spigolo dell'Ospitalità rock climb
The multi-pitch rock climb Spigolo dell’Ospitalità was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon up the beautiful Pedra Longa tower in Sardinia. Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu recently made a rare, possibly even first, repeat of this climb above the coast of Baunei.
Jernej Kruder climbs 9a sport and 8C boulder in just two days
09/03/2017 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs 9a sport and 8C boulder in just two days
In a mere two days Slovenian rock climber Jernej Kruder redpointed a 9a sport climb and an 8C boulder problem, namely 'Bi herri, borokka bat' and 'Catalan witness the fitness' at Cova del ocell in Spain.
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold...
Hansjörg Auer remembers the Marmolada Fish route free solo
22/02/2017 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer remembers the Marmolada Fish route free solo
The video profile of Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his free solo climb of the Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce (Weg durch den Fisch) - carried out on 29/04/2007 up the South Face of Marmolada, Dolomites
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
21/02/2017 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington
Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington have abandoned their attempt at make the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, the famous big wall up the Central Paine Tower in Patagonia, due to terrible weather.
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
05/02/2017 - Alpinism
Eiger Metanoia video of Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli repeat
Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...