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New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
12/03/2013 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
In February 2013 the Italian climbers Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi and Andrea Zaffaroni made the first ascent of Perdidos en el Mundo (870m, 23 pitches, 7b+, 6c+ obligatory) up the north face of Cerro Walwalun in...
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres
12/03/2013 - Climbing
Leopoldo Faria climbs Portugal's first 9a at Sagres
At the sea cliff Sagres Leopoldo Faria has made the first ascent of Peixe Porco, the first 9a sport climb in Portugal.
James Pearson repeats Elder Statesman at Curbar
19/02/2013 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Elder Statesman at Curbar
On 15/02/2013 James Pearson made the third ascent of Elder Statesman HXS 7a at Curbar Edge, England.
Bafomet, first M14 in Poland
14/02/2013 - Alpinism
Bafomet, first M14 in Poland
On 17/02/2013 Michal Król and Marcin Gasienica-Kotelnicki both climbed Bafomet to establish Poland's first-ever drytooling route graded M14.
Adam Ondra... interview after La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana
07/02/2013 - Interviews
Adam Ondra... interview after La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana
Climbing at the very limit: today Adam Ondra freed La Dura Dura at Oliana in Spain for which he suggests the super grade 9b+. The interview and first details directly from "magic" Adam himself.
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean...
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
31/01/2013 - Climbing
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).
Sfasciacarrozze, new ice and mixed climb in the Brenta Dolomites
23/01/2013 - Alpinism
Sfasciacarrozze, new ice and mixed climb in the Brenta Dolomites
On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
Monte Amiata, new trad and boulders by Michele Caminati
22/01/2013 - Climbing
Monte Amiata, new trad and boulders by Michele Caminati
On Tuscany's Monte Amiata Michele Caminati has freed the boulder problem Mondo Bastardo 8B and the trad route Un friend per amico E6 6c.
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
E9 6c, the video of John Redhead and Johnny Dawes
16/01/2013 - Climbing
E9 6c, the video of John Redhead and Johnny Dawes
E9 6c, the climbing documentary featuring John Redhead and Johnny Dawes, by Dominic Clemence.
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership
On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of...
Cerro Torre, the Ragni Route and an increasingly popular Patagonia
04/01/2013 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, the Ragni Route and an increasingly popular Patagonia
News from Patagonia: 48 alpinists summited Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route, while a variation finish was added called Directa Huarpe. The Cerro Pollone group was traversed by Japanese climbers Jumbo Jokoyama e Ryo Masumoto.
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
28/12/2012 - Interviews
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.