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Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
01/01/2019 - Climbing
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new climbing guidebook to Domusnovas, in the south-west of Sardinia, one of the 'historic' sport climbing areas on the Italian island.
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
31/12/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco...
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
08/12/2018 - Alpinism
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
In Langental (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have climbed a possible new icefall they have called Airport. The line runs to the left of the classic Jumbo Jet drip and has been graded WI5+ M4...
Fitz Roy Supercanaleta climbed in Patagonia by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
05/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Supercanaleta climbed in Patagonia by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
From 25 - 28 November 2018 the Italian alpinists Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli and Federico Secchi repeated the famous Supercanaleta route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
03/12/2018 - Alpinism
Russisches Roulette / New Kristallwand mixed climb by Matthias Wurzer, Peter Wurzer
Austrian mountain guides Matthias Wurzer and Peter Wurzer have established Russisches Roulette, Russian roulette, a difficult and dangerous mixed climb up the northeast face of Kristallwand (Venediger Group, Hohe Tauern, Austria).
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Dolomites steep skiing: big first ski descent of Croda Marcora SW Face
Dolomites steep skiing: big first ski descent of Croda Marcora SW Face
On 07/05/2018 Francesco Vascellari, Marco Gasperin, Loris De Barba and Tiziano Canal made the probable first descent of the impressive south-west face of Croda Marcora, Sorapis, Dolomites.
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
15/11/2018 - Alpinism
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in...
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable...
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
22/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grossglockner: new route climbed by Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger
Hans Zlöbl and Ulrich Mühlburger have made the first ascent of The Power of Love, a new climb up the SE Face of Großglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.
Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori
19/10/2018 - Climbing
Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori
The route topo of Mescalito up Rupe Secca on Monte Colodri in Arco, the multi-pitch rock climb first ascended in 1982 by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori and widely considered a masterpiece of the Sarca Valley. By Carlo Cosi, mountain...
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
18/10/2018 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
Italian climber Federica Mingolla reports about her first free ascent in Valle Orco, Italy, of an old project bolted in 2001 by Giovannino Massari and now graded 8a+. The route joins another nearby line freed by Mingolla a year ago:...
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta...
Pale di San Martino Dolomites: Manolo and Narci Simion establish Bebe Forever up Tacca Bianca
16/10/2018 - Climbing
Pale di San Martino Dolomites: Manolo and Narci Simion establish Bebe Forever up Tacca Bianca
On 29 August 2018 Manolo (aka Maurizio Zanolla) and Narci Simion made the first free ascent of Bebe Forever (100m, max 7b/c max 6c), a new rock climb up Tacca Bianca (Val Canali, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The line...

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