533 News found

'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the east face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.

The final stage of the The North Face Speaker Series 2012 took place in London on 20/11/2012 with two great alpinists: America's Conrad Anker and Italy's Simone Moro. The themes couldn't have been any others than alpinism and the Himalaya, from Meru to Gasherbrum II.

On the east face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson Jonathan Siegrist are currently working the crux central pitches of the demanding Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.

Four new rock climbs have seen the light of day in the Monte Oddeu massif (Dorgali, Sardinia). These 200m outings are entirely bolt protected, climb, splendid rock and fit in to "plaisir" category.

In China's Shaluli Shan mountain range Dave Anderson and Szu-ting Yi have made the first ascent of Kemailong (5870m).

Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the east face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.

In August 2012 Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Bas Visscher, Vincent van Beek and Saskia van der Smeede established Poco Loco, a new route up the previously unclimbed North Face of Puscanturpa Este (5410m), Andes, Peru. The report by Bas van der Smeede.

On 19/09/2012 Andreas Fransson made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.

Between 29 and 30 August 2012 Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea made the first ascent of Compagni dai campi e dalle officine (330m, EX up to VI-, A4) on the east face of  Corno Grande, Vetta Occidentale, Gran Sasso, Italy.

American alpinists Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster have made the third ascent of Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7,285m in Karakorum via a new route up the South Face.

In June and July 2012 a strong team of international climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou forged 4 new free climbs on Baffin Island’s East Coast, including The Door 8b.

Slovenian alpinists Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindic have repeated Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d'Angle on Mont Blanc on-sight in 32 hours.

Kyle Dempster, Hayden Kennedy and Urban Novak have made the first ascent of a new route up the virgin east face of K7 (Karakorum, Pakistan).