859 News found

Filippo Manca talks about his bouldering trip to America where, in Yosemite, he managed to repeat the legendary Midnight Lightning boulder problem. Moments later he encountered American climbing legend Ron Kauk who, in 1978, made the first ascent of what has transformed into one of the most famous boulder problems...

Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.

In August at the crag Socaire in Chile German climber Pirmin Bertle made the first ascent of 'Le vent nous portera'. Graded 9a+, this is the hardest sport climb in the country and South America.

Italian mountain guide Silvestro Franchini (30) reports about the first ascent of 'Fessura del Caret', a difficult new crack climb in Val di Genova within the Adamello - Brenta Natural Park.

The small island of Kalymnos in Greece, without a doubt one world's premier sport climbing destinations, celebrates 20 years of rock climbing holidays.

Vlad Capusan reports about Tutti Frutti Summer Love (5.11+, A3, 17 pitches, 610m), the big new route climbed up the North Face of Bugaboos Spire in British Columbia, Canada together with Tom Schindfessel from 8 - 11 August 2017.

From 5 to 21 July 2017 Catalan alpinist Sílvia Vidal made the solo first ascent of 'Un pas més' (A4 / A4+, 6a, 530 m) up the West Face of Xanadu (Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska).

The report by Lisi Steurer who teamed up with Hannes Pfeifhofer to make the first ascent of Hakuna Matata (400m, 8a), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the South Face of Taè (Spalti di Col Becchei), Dolomites.

One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.

The trip report by Simon Richardson who from 4 - 6 August together with Michael Rinn made the first ascent of Game of Thrones (ED2, 1250m), the first route up the South-West Face of Monarch Mountain (3572m) in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia in Canada.

In July 2017 the Italian climbers Matteo de Zaiacomo, Dimitri Anghileri and Marco Maggioni belonging to the Ragni di lecco climbing club made the first ascent of Rivotra Mahery (strong wind) a new 700 meter rock climb with difficulties up to 8a+ on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.

Between 2016 and 2017 a series of new rock climbs were first ascended on the Lofoten Islands, Norway, by the Spanish climbers Guille Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Pau Gómez, Jordi Esteve and Felix Queipo established up peaks Marklitinden, Storskiva, Merraflestinden and Moltbaertinden.

Interview with Italian climber Federica Mingolla who teamed up with Nicolò Geremia to repeat Via della Cattedrale (8a+ max, 800m), the famous climb up Marmolada, Dolomites

In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.

On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.

On the North Pillar of Gross Wellhorn (Bernese Oberland, Switzerland) Silvan Schüpbach with the help of various climbing partners established two difficult multi-pitch alpine climbs, Adrenlinchiubi (7c max 7b obligatory, 250m) and Röck u Zöpf (7c max 7b obligatory, 230m).