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Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous...
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
01/09/2016 - Climbing
La vita è amara, Supramonte di Oliena climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia talks about the first ascent of 'La vita è amara', a climb multi-pitch climb he first ascended with Giovanni Manconi at Supramonte di Oliena, Sardinia.
Chris Sharma in Le Blond Project at Oliana
26/08/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma in Le Blond Project at Oliana
The video of America climber Chris Sharma attempting his Le Blond Project at Oliana, named after Patrick Edlinger.
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
26/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
More news from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. The climbers have forged a further two new routes in Stewart valley and the Ragni di Lecco alpinists are now returning.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
07/07/2016 - Climbing
São Tomé, new climb up Pico Cão Grande by Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah
In June 2016 Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of Nubivagant - Wandering in the clouds (455m, 5.13d/A0 8b) up Pico Cão Grande on the island of São Tomé, Africa.
Stefano Ghisolfi, a year after climbing Biographie
27/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi, a year after climbing Biographie
Stefano Ghisolfi talks about his return to Céüse in France a year after having repeated Biographie. It's a chance to remember those moments with a video that documents his ascent of this legendary sports climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
24/06/2016 - Climbing
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
Bouldering: after a 13-year courtship verging on the obsession, Swiss climber Martin Keller has amde the first ascent of The Highlander, an 8C problem at Sustenpass in Switzerland.
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
Sport climbing news: on 16/06/2016 at Flatanger in Norway Adam Ondra made the first ascent of the 9a+ climb 120 Degrees. And while the talented Japanese Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma have now reached this cave, at Oliana in Spain Klemen Bečan from Slovenia has repeated his second 9a+, Papichulo.
Rustam Gelmanov repeats Daniel Woods' Hypnotized Minds at RMNP
19/06/2016 - Climbing
Rustam Gelmanov repeats Daniel Woods' Hypnotized Minds at RMNP
Russian climber Rustam Gelmanov climbs Hypnotized Minds, the boulder problem put up by Daniel Woods in the Rocky Mountain National Park graded 8C/8C+.
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
03/06/2016 - Interviews
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 31/05/2016 repeated Hubble, the climb first ascended by Ben Moon in 1990 at Raven Tor, UK, hailed as the world’s first 8c+.
Silvio Reffo climbs Cornalba 9a+ with Goldrake
17/05/2016 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo climbs Cornalba 9a+ with Goldrake
On 15/05/2016 Italian sports climber Silvio Reffo repeated Goldrake, the 9a+ sports climb at Cornalba, Italy.
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana
28/04/2016 - Climbing
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana
Interview with 19-year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosén who, with T-1 Full equipe at Oliana in Spain at the end of March, carried out one of the most difficult female onsights of all times.
Tour du Rutor 2016: Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret win 18th edition
Tour du Rutor 2016: Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret win 18th edition
After three difficult stages, on Sunday 3 April 2016 the 18th Tour du Rutor was won by the Italians Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and by the Frenchwomen Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret.

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