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Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Langkofeleck: first ski descent in the Dolomites by Hermann Comploj
Langkofeleck: first ski descent in the Dolomites by Hermann Comploj
On 20/039/2016 Hermann Comploj carried out a new first ski descent in the Dolomites, by skiing a line alone down the SW Face of Langkofeleck, also referred to as Spallone Sassolungo 3081m.
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Julien Herry reports about the first ski and snowboard descent of the Voie Originale down the South Face of Grande Rocheuse (4102m) in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out together with Davide Capozzi, Lambert Galli and Denis Trento.
Iker Pou adds new 9a climb to Mallorca
14/03/2016 - Climbing
Iker Pou adds new 9a climb to Mallorca
39-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Cleteropa Original 9a on the island of Mallorca, Spain
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
33rd Transcavallo: Kilian Jornet and Laetitia Roux win Individual Race
20/02/2016 - Competitions
33rd Transcavallo: Kilian Jornet and Laetitia Roux win Individual Race
Kilian Jornet and Laetitia Roux earned precious points on Friday 19 Febraury 2016 at the fourth 2016 ISMF Ski Mountaineering World Cup event, the 33rd Transcavallo, by winning the Individual race that took place at Alpago, more specifically at Col Indes, a few kilometres above Tambre.
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
19/02/2016 - Alpinism
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
In January and February 2016 the Japanese climbers Takaaki Nagato and Jumbo Katsutaka Yokoyama established two new routes in Patagonia: Knobmania (7c, 400m) up the West Face of Aguja El Tridente and Pilar Canino (7b, 600m) up the West Face of Cerro Piergiorgio.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
15/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in Val Masino (Italy).
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
29/01/2016 - Climbing
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.
Trekking Peaks in Nepal's Khumbu Himal
19/01/2016 - Alpinism
Trekking Peaks in Nepal's Khumbu Himal
Italian Mountain Guide Rudy Buccella discusses his recent trip to the Trekking Peaks of Nepal. To remind us, even in this post-earthquake period, of how beautiful these mountains are and how much help the Nepalese people direly need.
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in Patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
15/12/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San...
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
23/11/2015 - Alpinism
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
From 18 - 25 October 2015 the Ukrainian mountaineers Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin made the first ascent of the NNW spur of Talung (7349m) in the Kangchenjunga region of Nepal. The 2350m long new route has been called Daddy Magnum Force and graded M6, AI6, A3 overall route difficulty...