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Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
10/01/2020 - Alpinism
Two new ice climbs in Valnontey by the Cogne Mountain Guides
Two new ice and mixed routes were established in Valnontey, Valle d'Aosta, close to the legendary Repentance: Sputnik and Daddy cool, by Michele Amadio, Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz, Roberto Meoli and Alberto Silvestri. Cogne Mountain Guides Marco Farina reports
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
27/12/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val Lasties (Dolomites) with Martin Sieberer.
Enfant (Terrible), new ski descent off Cima Termoncello in Brenta Dolomites
Enfant (Terrible), new ski descent off Cima Termoncello in Brenta Dolomites
On the WNW Face of Cima Termoncello in the Brenta Dolomites, Andrea Cozzini, Alberto Ferrazza, Claudio Lanzafame and Marco Maganzini have skied what is likely to be a new descent called Enfant (Terrible). Lanzafame reports.
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
04/12/2019 - Interviews
The Nose on El Capitan according to Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher
Interview with Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher after their free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
Tobias Engl, Florian Huber establish Dolasilla up Lavarella in the Dolomites
05/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tobias Engl, Florian Huber establish Dolasilla up Lavarella in the Dolomites
The topo of Dolasilla (VIII-, 300m) established by Tobias Engl and Florian Huber up Piz Lavarella (Conturines - Lavarella) in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists this is likely to be the first route up the mountain’s west face.
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
30/09/2019 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m). And miraculously escaped scary rockfall a few days earlier.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
09/09/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
The solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West carried out by Hansjörg Auer, the solo ascent of Lunag Ri carried out by David Lama and the ascent of Latok 1 completed by Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar are the ascents honoured by the Piolet d’Or 2019.The press release of...
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
28/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
British mountaineer Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the entire west ridge of Mount Waddington in Canada’s Coast Mountains, climbed with Ian Welsted alpine style from 3 to 7 August 2019. On 22 July the duo climbed the North Face of Mount Phillips in the Canadian Rockies.
Zeitsprung, new climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites
21/08/2019 - Alpinism
Zeitsprung, new climb up Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites
The mountain guides Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner have made the first ascent of Zeitsprung, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Große Zinne / Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
16/08/2019 - Alpinism
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
On the north face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have made the first ascent of Parole Sante, a new1050m route with difficulties up to VIII A1.
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Muztagh Tower Black Tooth, first ascent details by Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer
08/08/2019 - Alpinism
Muztagh Tower Black Tooth, first ascent details by Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer
Details of the first ascent of Black Tooth, the 6718m mountain next to Muztagh Tower in the Karakorum, Pakistan, carried out by Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer on 26 July 2019.
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.

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