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Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
11/03/2009 - Alpinism
The Norwegian Alpine Club and the ethics for climbing in Norway
With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Nalle Hukkataival boulders Hueco Tanks
06/03/2009 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival boulders Hueco Tanks
On a quick visit to Hueco Tanks, Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent of The Machinist V13 and Tequila Sunrise V13.
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
05/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
25/02/2009 - Alpinism
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
17/02/2009 - Climbing
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
16/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland
On 25/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione and Massimo Coccalatto carried out the first ascent of Alta tensione (60m, II/5+) a new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo (Switzerland). On 01/02 Francesco Vaudo and Silvia Preti made the first ascent of nearby La stangata (60m, III/5+).
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).

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