3146 News found

09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...

06/03/2009 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival boulders Hueco Tanks On a quick visit to Hueco Tanks, Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent of The Machinist V13 and Tequila Sunrise V13.

06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.

05/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.

02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.

26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.

26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.

25/02/2009 - Alpinism
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).

24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.

23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.

17/02/2009 - Climbing
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.

16/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing, two new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo, Switzerland On 25/01/09 Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione and Massimo Coccalatto carried out the first ascent of Alta tensione (60m, II/5+) a new icefalls in the Gole di Gondo (Switzerland). On 01/02 Francesco Vaudo and Silvia Preti made the first ascent of nearby La stangata (60m, III/5+).

13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).

12/02/2009 - Alpinism
Paine South African Route, interview with Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto Interview with Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto after their first free ascent of the South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.

10/02/2009 - Climbing
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto After 11 days on the wall Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva amd Ben Ditto have carried out the first free ascent of the South African route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.

06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...
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