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Joy Division on Qualido, second ascent by James Pearson
14/11/2011 - Climbing
Joy Division on Qualido, second ascent by James Pearson
On 12 and 13 October 2011 James Pearson made the coveted second ascent of Joy Division (800m, 8b) on the Qualido, Val di Mello, Italy, one of the hardest granite multi-pitches in Europe.
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
10/11/2011 - Climbing
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia
On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Sonnie Trotter on The Path
09/11/2011 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter on The Path
Video of Sonnie Trotter making the first ascent of The Path 5.14R, Lake Louise, Canada.
David Lama repeats Alexander Huber routes on Sonnwand
09/11/2011 - Climbing
David Lama repeats Alexander Huber routes on Sonnwand
David Lama has made quick repeats of Stoamanndl 8b and Donnervogel 8b, first ascended by Alexander Huber, a few months after making the first repeat of Paciencia 8a on the North Face of the Eiger.
Banff Film Festival, Cold wins best film, Freedom Climbers best book
08/11/2011 - Events
Banff Film Festival, Cold wins best film, Freedom Climbers best book
The 36th Banff Film Festival was celebrated in the small Canadian town last week and the winners of the various categories have now been announced.
Pietro dal Prà, two new routes on Lastia de Gardes
08/11/2011 - Alpinism
Pietro dal Prà, two new routes on Lastia de Gardes
Italian climber Pietro dal Prà together with Alessandro Rudatis has established two difficult new multi-pitches, In mezzo poco (400m, 8a+) and Gracias a la Vida (270m, 8a+) up Lastia de Gardes in the Italian Dolomites.
Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, El Cap exploration in Yosemite
08/11/2011 - Climbing
Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, El Cap exploration in Yosemite
Nico Favresse repeated The Salathe Wall before exploring a new line up the right-hand side of El Capitan, Yosemite together with Sean Villanueva.
Piolet d'Or Asia won by Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov for Pik Pobeda
07/11/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or Asia won by Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov for Pik Pobeda
Kazakh alpinists Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov have won the Piolet d'or Asia for the new route they established last August on Pik Pobeda (7439m).
Neil Gresham Pembroke DWS video
06/11/2011 - Climbing
Neil Gresham Pembroke DWS video
Video of Neil Gresham deep water soloing in Pembroke, Wales
Shoshala Trishul direct, a tribute to Giovanni Quirici
04/11/2011 - Alpinism
Shoshala Trishul direct, a tribute to Giovanni Quirici
The film documenting the last expedition carried out by Giovanni Quirici and the ascent of Shoshala via the new route Trishul direct together with Elie Chevieux and Yannick Boissenot.
Tommy Caldwell ever upwards on Dawn Wall, El Capitan
03/11/2011 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell ever upwards on Dawn Wall, El Capitan
Tommy Caldwell has now sent pitch 10 of his Dawn Wall project on El Capitan, Yosemite.
Hans Florine and Alex Honnold, failed The Nose Speed attempt
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Hans Florine and Alex Honnold, failed The Nose Speed attempt
American climbers Hans Florine and Alex Honnold missed breaking The Nose Speed record in Yosemite, USA by 45 seconds today.
Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso
02/11/2011 - Climbing
Momento Libero, new route by Alessio Roverato on Sasso Rosso
Last summer Alessio Roverato established Momento Libero (330m, 8a max, 7a/b obligatory), up the SE Face of Sasso Rosso (Valsugana, Valbrenta, Italy).
Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull first ascent of Mugu Chuli in Nepal
29/10/2011 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull first ascent of Mugu Chuli in Nepal
British alpinists Mick Fowler and Dave Turnbull have made the first ascent of Mugu Chuli (6310m) in Nepal.
Fabrizio Peri and Jolly Lamberti redpoint new 8c+ at Grotti, Italy
28/10/2011 - Climbing
Fabrizio Peri and Jolly Lamberti redpoint new 8c+ at Grotti, Italy
Fabrizio Peri and Alessandro Jolly Lamberti have both managed to redoint "Debolezza e disonore" 8c+ at Grotti, Central Italy.
Hungarob Combination, new multi-pitch on Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia
27/10/2011 - Climbing
Hungarob Combination, new multi-pitch on Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia
A German team of climbers comprised on Jörg Helfrich, Manuel Hofmann, Till Kramann and Alexander Stahl have put up Hungarob Combination (370m, 7c, 6c oblig) on the Orabeskopf, Brandberg massif, Namibia. Trip report by Manuel Hofmann.