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Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
02/02/2010 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi repeats Oniyx at Chironico
The strong Italian climber Enrico Baistrocchi has managed the first repeat of the boudlery Oniyx 8c, first ascended by Markus Bock at Chironico, Switzerland. Massimo Malpezzi has the story.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt repeated twice in the Gasteinertal, Austria
Centercourt, the new extreme testpiece first climbed by Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner at the start of Janauary, has been repeated twice, by the Slovenians Aljaz Anderle and Klemen Premrl and the Austrians Rudolf Hauser and Helmut Holleis.
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
01/02/2010 - Alpinism
Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
28/01/2010 - Alpinism
Gratta e vinci, new mixed route for Florian Riegler
Last December the South Tyroleans Florian Riegler, Hannes Lehmyer and Tamara Lunger carried out the first ascent of Gratta e vinci (120m, M10, WI 5) at the Passo delle Pedale/Mendola. On 21/12/09 Florian and his brother Martin made the first...
Zero 70, new icefall in Valle di Champorcher, Italy
25/01/2010 - Alpinism
Zero 70, new icefall in Valle di Champorcher, Italy
On 15 January 2010 Giampiero Bertotti, Stefano dalla Gasperina, Enrico Bonino and Sofia Palmisano carried out the first ascent of Zero 70 (100m, 5/5+ II) in Valle di Champorcher (Valle d'Aosta).
Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
23/01/2010 - Alpinism
Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
On 22 January 2010, 34 year old Italian mountaineer Luca Vuerich was killed by an avalanche while climbing an icefall at Prisojinik, close to Kranjska Gora on the Italian-Slovenian border. Vuerich was rescued and transported to hospital in Udine, where...
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
22/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed...
Samuele Scalet, good-bye to the alpinist who loved the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
19/01/2010 - Alpinism
Samuele Scalet, good-bye to the alpinist who loved the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Samuele Scalet has left us at 70 years of age. Throughout his lifetime the Italian alpinist forged unforgettable routes on the Pale di San Martino (Dolomites).
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
12/01/2010 - Alpinism
Centercourt WI7+, new extreme ice climb in Austria's Gasteinertal by Leichtfried and Purner
On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.
Dave MacLeod climbs two new routes at Glen Coe, Scotland
11/01/2010 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod climbs two new routes at Glen Coe, Scotland
Dave MacLeod is making the most of great British winter conditions by climbing two new routes at Glen Coe, Liquidation and Frozen Assets at Aonach Eagach.
Cascata di Rochemolles, Val di Susa, Italy
08/01/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata di Rochemolles, Val di Susa, Italy
A splendid icefall first ascended by M. Bernardi, G.C. Grassia and F. Salino almost 30 years ago at Vallone di Rochemolles (Val di Susa, Piemonte, Italy).
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
07/01/2010 - Alpinism
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate...
Santa Linya, Chris Sharma frees Neanderthal 9b
21/12/2009 - Climbing
Santa Linya, Chris Sharma frees Neanderthal 9b
On 18/12/2009 Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Neanderthal 9b at Santa Linya, Spain.
Guy Lacelle
14/12/2009 - Alpinism
Guy Lacelle
British alpinist and journalist Ian Parnell remembers Guy Lacelle from Canada, one of the world's leading ice climbers who died in an avalanche last Thursday in Hyalite Canyon, Montana, Canada.
Ren Zhong Feng, first ascent in China
10/12/2009 - Alpinism
Ren Zhong Feng, first ascent in China
On 28/11/2009 the Danish climbers Kristoffer Szilas and Martin Ploug reached the summit of the hiterhto unclimbed Ren Zhong Feng (5800m) in the Sichuan range in China via their route Lost to Ice (TD: M4, WI4, 1300m). During that period...

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