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Kilian Jornet Burgada, Innominata Ridge and Mont Blanc in 6 hours 17 minutes
20/09/2012 - Alpinism
Kilian Jornet Burgada, Innominata Ridge and Mont Blanc in 6 hours 17 minutes
On 18 September Spanish ski mountaineer and sky runner Kilian Jornet Burgada ascended from Courmayeur to the summit of Mont Blanc via the famous Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) in 6 hours and 17 minutes. The Spaniard then raced...
New difficult rock climbs in Greenland
20/09/2012 - Climbing
New difficult rock climbs in Greenland
This summer Tomas Brt (Czech Republic), Vlado Linek and Jan Smolen (Slovakia) visited Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord where they established two new routes, Turbo (VIII+, A2,1450m) on the South Face of Ketil and Keep Panic, Please (VIII, 1270m)  up the NW...
Climbing violations at Joshua Tree
18/09/2012 - Climbing
Climbing violations at Joshua Tree
Egregious wilderness climbing violations found at Joshua Tree National Park, USA.
Ogre North Face, the attempt by Barmasse and Bernasconi
18/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ogre North Face, the attempt by Barmasse and Bernasconi
Hervé Barmasse talks about his failed attempt-project carried out last July together with Daniele Bernasconi up the virgin North Face of Ogre.
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
17/09/2012 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
The 12th World Climbing Championship took place in Paris last week. Lead was won by the Austrians Jakob Schubert and - for a record breaking fourth time - Angela Eiter. Boulder was won by Mélanie Sandoz from France and -...
Oscar Perèz and Francesca Canepa win the Tor des Geants 2012
17/09/2012 - Competitions
Oscar Perèz and Francesca Canepa win the Tor des Geants 2012
The Tor des Geants 2012 was won by Oscar Perèz (Spain) and Francesca Canepa (Italy). The race along the Valle d'Aosta paths at the foot of Mont Blanc (330km and 24.000 elevation gain) was completed by 392 athletes.
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
14/09/2012 - Alpinism
Out of Reality, Kopold and Sabovcik new route attempt on Great Trango Towe
This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli...
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Colonne d'Ercole, new climb up Punta Tissi in Civetta by Baù, Beber and Tondini
On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route...
Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali
11/09/2012 - Climbing
Alien, new route on Presolana by Codazzi and Natali
On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the South Face of Presolana Centrale.
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
06/09/2012 - Interviews
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.
A Zillertal climbing holiday at home with Gerhard Hörhager for Mauro Calibani & friends
04/09/2012 - Climbing
A Zillertal climbing holiday at home with Gerhard Hörhager for Mauro Calibani & friends
Mauro Calibani recounts his holiday with family and friends at the home of Gerhard Hörhager, in Austria's Zillertal rock paradise. A step back into climbing history, in the footsteps of great Hörhager and his Graceland 8b and Ganja 8a+ trad,...
Bulgarians climb new 5000m peaks in Pakistan’s Khane Valley
03/09/2012 - Alpinism
Bulgarians climb new 5000m peaks in Pakistan’s Khane Valley
In August 2012 a Bulgarian expedition comprised of Doychin Boyanov, Tervel Kerelov, Michail Michailov and Nikolay Petkov made the first ascents of Levski Peak (5733m) and Grey Tower (5435m) in the Khane Valley, Pakistan.
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Alex Puccio win Rock Master Boulder 2012
02/09/2012 - Competitions
Dmitrii Sharafutdinov and Alex Puccio win Rock Master Boulder 2012
2/09/2012. At the Arco Climbing Stadium Alex Pucciogtom America won the Rock Master Boulder 2012, beating Melissa Le Neve (Fra) and Katharina Saurwein (Aut). Russia's Dmitrii Sharafutdinov won the men's event by beating his teammateRustam Gelmanov and Slovenia's Klemen Becan.
Eiter and Puigblanque triumph in Rock Master Lead
02/09/2012 - Competitions
Eiter and Puigblanque triumph in Rock Master Lead
Angela Eiter from Austria and Ramón Julian Puigblanque from Spain have won their 6th Rock Master Lead. No one ever before has done better than them. Christine Schranz and Jacob Schubert from Austria placed second, Evgenia Malamid from Russia and...
Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina
01/09/2012 - Competitions
Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina
Leonardo Gontero raced to the historic first-ever Italian victory in the Speed World Cup during the Arco Rock Master di Arco. Russia's Alina Gaydamakina won the women's event.