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Slovenian winter climbing report by Urban Golob
18/02/2011 - Alpinism
Slovenian winter climbing report by Urban Golob
Urban Golob reports about the winter ascents in Slovenia by climbers such as Andrej Grmovsek, Luka Krajnc, Dejan Koren, Aljaz Anderle, Marko Prezelj and many more.
Enzo Oddo repeats Ambrosia and other Bishop ascents
17/02/2011 - Climbing
Enzo Oddo repeats Ambrosia and other Bishop ascents
Enzo Oddo from France has repeated Ambrosia V11 at the Buttermilks, Bishop, while a host of other climbers including Kilian Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Nalle Hukkataival and Alex Johnson have made other important sends.
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
16/02/2011 - Alpinism
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Chris Linder and his Window of Opportunity
04/02/2011 - Climbing
Chris Linder and his Window of Opportunity
American climber Chris Lindner speaks about his Window of Opportunity 5.13+ in California and the use of removable bolts..
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett return to Helmcken Falls, Canada
31/01/2011 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett return to Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada and Tim Emmett from Britain have returned to the Helmcken Falls in Canada and added a further 4 pitches to last season's Spray On.
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
18/01/2011 - Events
Francek Knez and Silvo Karo, Slovenian Order of Merit for alpinism
On 22 December 2010 the Slovenian alpinists Francek Knez and Silvo Karo were awarded the Order of Merit by Slovenia's President Dr. Danilo Tuerk. This high state decoration was confirmed on the pair for "their achievements in Slovenian mountain climbing and for their contributions to the reputation of Slovenian mountaineering...
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
04/01/2011 - Alpinism
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
At the end of 2010 James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Renan Ozturk and Alex Honnold established a series of new routes in the Ennedi Range in Chad.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
30/12/2010 - Alpinism
Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland
Over a four day period in winter 2007 the experienced Swiss ice climbers Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr established "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Vilhauer and Kauffman establish Night Terror on Lobuche East, Nepal
23/12/2010 - Alpinism
Vilhauer and Kauffman establish Night Terror on Lobuche East, Nepal
The Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer have established Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°), a stunning line up Lobuche East (6119m), Nepal.
More hard US trad at the New River Gorge and Shawagunks
22/12/2010 - Climbing
More hard US trad at the New River Gorge and Shawagunks
At the Shawagunks Brian Kim established the trad route Monumental 5.13d, while at the New River Gorge Brett Perkins climbed Proper Soul 5.14a R/X without bolts but with trad gear.
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Sharma sends super route at Oliana
20/12/2010 - Climbing
Sharma sends super route at Oliana
Chris Sharma has added "Power inverter" 9a+ to Oliana, Lleida, Spain.

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