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Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention
Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special mentions have been awarded for the ascent of Nilkanth by...
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
A five-week climbing trip in June and July 2018 to the Hindu Raj mountain range in Pakistan resulted in the probable first ascent of Kachqiant, a 5990m peak overlooking the Dasbar Valley, by Dutch mountaineers Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher. Climbing partners Ruud Rotte and Menno Schokker made an unsuccessful...
Rick Allen rescued by drone in descent off Broad Peak
17/07/2018 - Alpinism
Rick Allen rescued by drone in descent off Broad Peak
Thanks to the help of a drone leading British mountaineer Rick Allen has been rescued in descent off Broad Peak (8047m) in Pakistan.
Hansjörg Auer, Lupghar Sar West solo ascent details
09/07/2018 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, Lupghar Sar West solo ascent details
The first details from Hansjörg Auer about his solo first ascent of the West Face of Lupghar Sar West in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Hansjörg Auer completes solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West
09/07/2018 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer completes solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West
Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer has made a solitary ascent of Lupghar Sar West, a 7181 meter peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Arnaud Petit and French team add new route to Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
27/06/2018 - Climbing
Arnaud Petit and French team add new route to Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar
A French FFME expedition to Madagascar led by Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison has established Soavadia, a 600m new rock climb up Tsaranoro Atsimo.
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
19/06/2018 - Interviews
Slovak Direct, Denali: Chantel Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase seal first female ascent
Interview with Anne Gilbert Chase after the ninth ascent and first female ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali, climbed from 2 - 5 June 2018 with Chantel Astorga.
Janhukot first ascent in Indian Himalaya by British expedition
18/06/2018 - Alpinism
Janhukot first ascent in Indian Himalaya by British expedition
British mountaineers Malcolm Bass, Paul Figg and Guy Buckingham have made the first ascent of Janhukot (6805m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India.
Grünhorn direttissima climbed by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss in Bernese Oberland
01/06/2018 - Alpinism
Grünhorn direttissima climbed by Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss in Bernese Oberland
Mountaineering in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: on 12 May Dani Arnold and Stephan Ruoss made the first ascent of Exile on Main Street, a 600 m line up Gross Grünhorn (4044 m).
French forge new routes in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
29/05/2018 - Alpinism
French forge new routes in Alaska's Revelation Mountains
In early April 2018 French alpinists Thomas Auvaro, Jeremy Fino, Matthieu Rideau and Antoine Rolle climbed two new routes in the Revelation Mountains in Alaska. Rideau provides the trip report.
Paul Bonhomme completes Aiguille Verte 4 Faces in a day
Paul Bonhomme completes Aiguille Verte 4 Faces in a day
French mountain guide Paul Bonhomme has completed his project of climbing and skiing 4 different faces on the Aiguille Verte (4122 m) in the Mont Blanc massif on the same day.
Jonathan Siegrist = Jumbo Love 9b
19/05/2018 - Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist = Jumbo Love 9b
American sports climber Jonathan Siegrist has repeated Jumbo Love, the 9b sports climb freed by Chris Sharma at Clark Mountain, USA in 2008 and repeated only by Ethan Pringle.
Changabang North Face alpine style by France's Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel
18/05/2018 - Alpinism
Changabang North Face alpine style by France's Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti, Sébastien Ratel
Climbing alpine style from 11 - 13 May, French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Moatti and Sébastien Ratel belonging to Groupe Militaire de haute montagne (GMHM) have repeated the impressive North Face of Changabang (6864 m) in the Garhwal Himalaya in India.
Sébastien de Sainte Marie skis steep Swiss trilogy
Sébastien de Sainte Marie skis steep Swiss trilogy
36-year-old Swiss steep skier Sébastien de Sainte Marie reports about an interesting trilogy of steep ski descents between Davos and Arosa: West Face of Schiesshorn (2605m) and Tiejer Flue (2781m) on his own, and the North Face of Chüpfenflue (2658m) with Michal Dzian. These descents came about thanks to the...
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
08/05/2018 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler, 40 years ago Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 8 May 1978 Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to climb Mount Everest (8848m) without supplemental oxygen. The barrier-breaking undertaking deemed impossible that forever changed Himalayan mountaineering and raised the bar for all future ascents.
Tamara Lunger withdraws from Der Lange Weg ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps
Tamara Lunger withdraws from Der Lange Weg ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps
After tackling over 900 km, the South Tyrolean alpinist and ski mountaineer Tamara Lunger has withdrawn from the Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the great ski mountaineering trips across the Alps from Vienna to Nice.

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