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Mezzalama Trophy, 2013, a perfect day
06/05/2013 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy, 2013, a perfect day
On Saturday 4 May the XIX Mezzalama Trophy was won by the Italians Manfred Reichegger, Damiano Lenzi and Matteo Eydallin. The women's competition was won by the Italians Laura Besseghini, Raffaella Rossi and Elena Nicolini. Lorenzo Scandroglio provides the report, Marco Spataro the splendid photos.
Alexander Megos frees Frankenjura Classified 9a+
02/05/2013 - Climbing
Alexander Megos frees Frankenjura Classified 9a+
In Germany's Frankenjura Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Classified 9a+.
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
24/04/2013 - Alpinism
Moose's Tooth in Alaska: David Lama and Dani Arnold fly up their Bird of Prey
From 12 to 14 April 2013 the alpinists Dani Arnold and David Lama made the first ascent of Bird of Prey (1500m, 6a, M7+, 90°, A2) up the unclimbed headwall of Moose's Tooth in Alaska.
New climbing on Kalymnos: Secret Garden and Saint Photis
23/04/2013 - Climbing
New climbing on Kalymnos: Secret Garden and Saint Photis
Two new crags on the island of Kalymnos: Secret Garden introduced by Aris Theodoropoulos and Saint Photis introduced by Simon Montmory.
Gole della Stretta, rock climbing in Sicily
19/04/2013 - Climbing
Gole della Stretta, rock climbing in Sicily
Max Flaccavento introduces the Gole della Stretta crag in Sicily. A "magical place" for climbing, with nearly 30 routes up to 8a.
Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain
18/04/2013 - Climbing
Magnus Midtbø onsights 8c+ at Rodellar in Spain
Norwegian climber Magnus Midtbø has onsighted Cosi fan tutte 8c+ at Rodellar. He is now the fifth sports climber to onsight this grade.
New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia
17/04/2013 - Climbing
New trad climbs at Garibaldi in Sardinia
Three new trad routes at the Garibaldi in south-east Sardinia, first ascended by Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia.
Nalle Hukkataival repeats Bügeleisen in the Maltatal
16/04/2013 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival repeats Bügeleisen in the Maltatal
Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has climbed Bügeleisen, the 8B+ boulder problem established in 2001 by Klem Loskot in Maltatal, Austria.
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
15/04/2013 - Alpinism
Alaska: big new climb on Citadel in the remote Kichatna Range
From 5 - 7 April Ben Erdmann, Jess Roskelley and Kristoffer Szilas made the first ascent of Hypa Zypa Couloir (ED: AI5+, M6+, 5.10R, A3, 1100m) up the East Face of the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.
Sperlonga, rock climbing, memories and beauty by Ivo Ferrari
12/04/2013 - Climbing
Sperlonga, rock climbing, memories and beauty by Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and the simple beauty of climbing: 3 rock climbs at Sperlonga and the pleasure of climbing, of feeling the sun and the rocks, and delving in the past (Fabio Delisi) and present.
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
11/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
The videos of the six ascents which all won the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or 2013: Kamet, Shiva, Muztagh Tower, Baitha Brakk (Ogre), Nanga Parbat and Kyashar. The videos were created for the award's celebration of the Piolets d'Or 2013 at Courmayeur by Vinicio Stefanello (Planetmountain.com) and Francesco...
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
11/04/2013 - Climbing
Punta Giradili, Sardinia: difficult new multi-pitch rock climb Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro
During three weekends between 2012 and 2013 Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti, Stefano Salvaterra, Franco Cavallaro and Adriano Cavallaro made the first ascent of Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro up beautiful Punta Giradili above Baunei in Sardinia. 230m high, established ground-up, with 7c obligatory climbing and two crux pitches still to be...
Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi
09/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi
On 16/03/2013 the British alpinists Mark Thomas and Dave Almond made the first ascent of a new mixed and ice climb, Jottnar (250m, VIII,8), up the North Face of Aiguille Du Midi, Mont Blanc.
Matteo Gambaro frees a new 8c at Finale
08/04/2013 - Climbing
Matteo Gambaro frees a new 8c at Finale
At Rocca degli Uccelli, Finale Ligure, Italy, Matteo Gambaro has made the first ascent of U beccu 8c.
New Peak District gritstone climbs by Tom Randall
07/04/2013 - Climbing
New Peak District gritstone climbs by Tom Randall
At Hallmoor Quarry in England's Peak District British climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Soft Parade E6 6b, while at Gardoms Edge he established Porride Egg E6 6a and Nah'han E8 6c.
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
06/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins
The prize for the best climb of 2012 was awarded at the end of an exciting ceremony in Courmayeur last night to all six nominated ascents. The Piolet d'Or Walter Bonatti Lifetime Achievement Award was given to Austria's Kurt Diemberger.