219 News found

On 29/09/08 Enrico Bonino and Paolo Stroppiana made the first ascent of Rêve Caché (700m, 5+ MR 4c) up the east face of Pointe d'Androsace, located in the Combe Maudite, Mont Blanc.

Interview with Renzino Cosson, mountaineer, mountain guide and Mont Blanc expert after the accident on Mont Blanc du Tacul which cost the lives of 8 mountaineers on Sunday 24 August. An occasion and analysis of the “rules” of nature and the spirit of mountaineering.

On 01 August 2008 Valery Babanov and Viktor Afanasiev climbed a new route up the SW Face of Gasherbrum I (8068m). The ascent comes in the wake of the Russian climbers new route on Broad Peak (8047m), carried out on 17 July.

On 17/07/2008 the Russians Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) after having climbed a new route up the northwest face of the 12th highest mountain in the world.

On 23 July 2008 Elisabetta Caserini and Ezio Marlier carried out the first ascent of Alpstation d’Isera (270m 7a, 6b+ obl) on Rocca La Meya (Southern Alpi Cozie, Piemonte).

Francesco Fazzi from Italy and Santiago Padros have ascended Free Tibet 2065 1500m/V+/80°/M5 on Ama Dablam, Nepal.

On 04/07/2007 Mauro 'Bubu' Bole and Gabriele Gorobey carried out the first free ascent of Donnafugata (750m; max 8a), first ascended by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schäli in 2004 on the S Face of Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites.

On 6/07 the Slovenian mountaineers Pavle Kozjekande Gregor Kresal made the first ascent of Stonehenge (VII+/VI, 70/50° ice, 600m), up the East face of Puscantrupa Este (5410m), Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.

Two new routes solo by Ezio Marlier, Spirito Libero (600m IV/4/M4) on Monte Emilius and Aragon (500m IV/4+/M6/A1) on Granta Parey, plus the solo repeats of some classic climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Grandes Jorasses give some food for thought about climbing "without partners".

In February 2007 Cyrille Berthod and Simon Anthamatten travelled to Patagonia for their first time ever and climbed 8 major peaks in the Fitz Roy massif - De L’S, Saint Exupery, St.Raphael, Poincenot, Fitz Roy, Mermoz, Guillaumet and Cerro Torre.

At the end of December a Japanese expedition led by Osamu Tanabe managed to climb the south Fasce of Lhotse (8516m) in winter, but turned back 40m short of the summit.

On Friday 16 January 2007 the five teams nominated for the award will present their ascent to the public and the (desired and prestigious) golden ice axe will be awarded to the "ascent of the year".

Andrej Magajne from Slovenia reports of his August 2006 and 2005 expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, which resulted in four new routes in the Karakol valley in the Terskey Ala Too range.

In mid-July a five-man Austrian expedition comprised of Thomas Scheiber, Hansjörg Auer, Matthias Auer, Karl Dung and Ambros Sailer established two new routes in the Trango Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan, and repeated Woman and Chalk, first ascended in 2001 by Bubu Bole, Mario Cortese and Fabio Dandri.

On 02/10/2006 Pavle Kozjek from Slovenia climbed a new route solo up the South East Face of Cho Oyu (8201m).

On 8 May Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov summited Manaslu via new route up the NE Face.