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Jirishanca in Peru, the attempt video
30/11/2014 - Alpinism
Jirishanca in Peru, the attempt video
The video of the attempt, carried out by Michi Wohlleben, Arne Bergau and Hannes Jähn in 2012, to climb Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru.
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
09/09/2014 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
On Monday 8 September the Italian alpinist Corrado "Korra" Pesce made a fast solo ascent of the Polish route up Pointe Helene on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Vanessa François bivouacs on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques
04/09/2014 - Alpinism
Vanessa François bivouacs on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques
From 2 - 3 September 2014 disabled alpinist Vanessa François spent the night in a portaledge on the Grande Gendarme of Arête des Cosmiques (Mont Blanc) together with Liv Sansoz.
Illimani West Ridge: climbing attempt in Bolivia
21/06/2014 - Alpinism
Illimani West Ridge: climbing attempt in Bolivia
At the start of June the alpinists Marco Erbetta, Enrico Rosso and Father Antonio Zavattarelli made un unsuccessful attempt of the stunning West Ridge of Illimani, Cordillera Real, andes.
Huascaran National Park, rules implemented to trek and climb in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
20/06/2014 - Environment
Huascaran National Park, rules implemented to trek and climb in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Authorities of the Huascaran National Park, Cordillera Blanca, Peru, are attempting to impose rules that oblige trekkers and climbers to hire local guides.
Grandes Jorasses: Luka Lindic and Luka Krajnc make first free ascent of Rolling Stones
11/04/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Luka Lindic and Luka Krajnc make first free ascent of Rolling Stones
Interview with Slovenian alpinist Luka Lindic who, together with Luka Krajnc, made the first free ascent of Rolling Stones up the North Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc), France
Banana Sprint, new mixed route up Grandes Murailles by Cazzanelli and Ferraris
18/03/2014 - Alpinism
Banana Sprint, new mixed route up Grandes Murailles by Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 14/03/2014 François Cazzanelli and Roberto Ferraris made the first ascent of Banana sprint, a 670m mixed line dedicated to Simona Hosquet up the SE Face of Grandes Murailles (Pennine Alps). The summit was reached by following the the Normal route up Punta Sella, first climbed in 1877 by G....
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
20/02/2014 - Climbing
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi
At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+ max, 7a+ oblig, 630m) up the North Face of Akopan Tepui in Venezuela.
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
10/02/2014 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2014, the big list
The complete list of all 2013 ascents taken into consideration by the Piolets d'Or, from which the choice of nominees for the Piolets d'Or 2014 will be made.
Stéphane Benoist: the south face of Annapurna and the importance of a climbing partnership
21/11/2013 - Alpinism
Stéphane Benoist: the south face of Annapurna and the importance of a climbing partnership
Interview with French alpinist Stéphane Benoist after the recent, epic ascent of the South Face of Annapurna carried out together with Yannick Graziani.
A tribute to Ueli Steck and the visionaries of alpinism. By Ivo Ferrari
15/10/2013 - Alpinism
A tribute to Ueli Steck and the visionaries of alpinism. By Ivo Ferrari
A look back at Ueli Steck and his solo ascent of the South Face of Annapurna... I've been surprised for years, and I don't envy them because the great thing is knowing and realising that these "visionaries" are up there, unattainable yet key to all of us who dream....
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
19/08/2013 - Interviews
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
Patrick Gabarrou was born in 1951 close to Paris in France and the routes first climbed by this alpinist, philosopher and mountain guide are integral parts of the history of Mont Blanc. The following interview was carried out by don Daniele D'Elia and Ronald Gumiel during the recent series of...
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...