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Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Curvas Peligrosas, steep skiing in Peru
Curvas Peligrosas, steep skiing in Peru
The trailer for Curvas Peligrosas, the film directed by Yannick Boissenot documenting a month spent in Peru together with Frederic Gentet and Stéphane Roguet where the trio made several steep skiing descents including Artesonraju, Huascaran and Tocllaraju.
Val Daone: Silvestro Franchini completes fantastic free climb link-up
01/11/2017 - Climbing
Val Daone: Silvestro Franchini completes fantastic free climb link-up
Silvestro Franchini talks about his link-up of the routes Orion, Psycobar and Gatto Silvestro at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, described as the "most beautiful free climb combination" in this mini-Yosemite in Northern Italy.
Farewell Fred Beckey, American climbing legend
31/10/2017 - Alpinism
Farewell Fred Beckey, American climbing legend
Legendary American climber Fred Beckey has passed away aged 94.
Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti
Caroline Face, huge first descent on Mount Aoraki in New Zealand by Briggs, Grant and Mosetti
On 27 October the Italian mountaineer Enrico Mosetti and the Britons Ben Briggs and Tom Grant made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face, the difficult and dangerous SE Face of Mount Aoraki / Mount Cook (3724m) in New Zealand. The achievement has already been described by the local...
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
28/10/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Edgar summit and new Italian West Face climb in China
An Italian expedition comprised of François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai has successfully climbed Mount Edgar (6618m) in the Sichuan region of China. Climbing in two teams, they repeated the original Korean route and established a new line up the West Face.
The Nose Speed, new record set by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds on El Capitan
27/10/2017 - Interviews
The Nose Speed, new record set by Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds on El Capitan
Interview with American climber Jim Reynolds who on 21 October 2017 teamed up with Brad Gobright to speed climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in 2:19:44. In doing so they beat the previous speed record set in 2012 by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by almost four minutes.
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
26/10/2017 - Alpinism
Shivling, big new route in Indian Himalaya climbed by Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini
Mountaineering news: in October Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Shiva's Ice, a beautiful new route up Shivling (6543 m) in the Indian Himalayas.
From Italy with love, new Italian trad climb in Canada's Bugaboos
25/10/2017 - Alpinism
From Italy with love, new Italian trad climb in Canada's Bugaboos
From 15 - 16 August 2017 the XMountain mountain Guide Luca Montanari and Arianna Del Sordo made the first ascent of 'From Italy with love', a trad climb up the Crescent Towers in the heart of the Bugaboo Spires, Canada.
Andrea Zanone climbs Coup de Grace, 9a in Switzerland's Val Bavona
24/10/2017 - Climbing
Andrea Zanone climbs Coup de Grace, 9a in Switzerland's Val Bavona
Italian climber Andrea Zanone has redpointed his first 9a sports climb Coup de Grace in the Canton of Ticino in Switzerland, first ascended in 2005 by America’s Dave Graham.
Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux
21/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nuptse South Face, extraordinary new French route climbed by Degoulet, Guigonne, Millerioux
French alpinists Hélias Millerioux, Frédéric Degoulet and Niçois Benjamin Guigonnet have made an alpine style ascent of a new route up the South Face of Nuptse, Nepal Himalaya
Sasha DiGiulian / The state of the art of women's climbing
20/10/2017 - Interviews
Sasha DiGiulian / The state of the art of women's climbing
Top American climber Sasha DiGiulian talks to planetmountain.com about the current state of female sport climbing, starting from the latest great ascents carried out Margo Hayes and Anak Verhoeven.
Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb
19/10/2017 - Alpinism
Gnadenlos, difficult and dangerous new Ortler ice climb
On the NW Face of Ortler (3905m) Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayer and Herbert Plattner have made the first ascent of 'Gnadenlos', a new icefall described as 'WI5 with great risk'.
Via Mirko, new rock climb above Val Gardena in the Dolomites
19/10/2017 - Alpinism
Via Mirko, new rock climb above Val Gardena in the Dolomites
The Italian mountain Guides Armin Senoner and Manuel Nocker have made the first ascent of Via Mirko, a new rock climb up Monte Steviola above Vallunga (Puez-Odle group), Dolomites.
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
12/10/2017 - Alpinism
Nangpai Gosum II first ascended by Jost Kobusch
24-year-old German alpinist Jost Kobusch claims the first ascent of Nangpai Gosum II, the 7296 meter high mountain located on the border between Nepal and China.
Farewell Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins, an indescribable tragedy for alpinism
11/10/2017 - Alpinism
Farewell Hayden Kennedy and Inge Perkins, an indescribable tragedy for alpinism
27-year-old Hayden Kennedy and his girlfriend Inge Perkins have lost their lives. Kennedy was considered one of the leading climbers of his generation.