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Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
19/05/2009 - Alpinism
Kangchenjunga, summits and abandoned attempts
On 18/05 at 2.30 pm Ferran Latorre from Spain reached the summit of Kangchenjunga. His companions Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Asier Izguirre and Alex Chicon summited circa two hours later, at 4:45pm. The Italians Nives Meroi and Romano Benet have abandoned their attempt and returned to Base Camp.
Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks
18/05/2009 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks
Denis Urubko, with his recent new route up the SE Face of Cho Oyu, has climbed all fourteen 8000m summits.
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
15/05/2009 - Alpinism
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the North Face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Goodbye Achille Compagnoni
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Goodbye Achille Compagnoni
Achille Compagnoni, the Italian mountaineer who together with Lino Lacedelli first set foot on the summit of K2 at 18.00 on 31 July 1954, died in Aosta two days ago.
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
12/05/2009 - Competitions
Mezzalama 2009 – an emotional story
The XVII Mezzalama Trophy took place on Monte Rosa on 02/05/2009. The legendary ski mountaineering competition was won by Manfred Reichegger, Matteo Eydallin and Denis Trento in a record breaking 4:01'22. The women's event was won by Francesca Martinelli, Roberta Pedranzini, Laetitia Roux in 4:43'31".
Bolts on Everest
06/05/2009 - Alpinism
Bolts on Everest
A team of Mountain Guides and Sherpa have placed some bolts on Everest to make the South Face route safer.
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
02/05/2009 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...
Videos of the Trento Filmfestival
30/04/2009 - Alpinism
Videos of the Trento Filmfestival
The videos from the WebTV section of the Trento Filmfestival 2009 are online, from Chris Sharma to Patrick Edlinger, Manolo, Kurt Diemberger, Marco Confortola, Fabio Leoni, Rolando Larcher and many, many more.
57th TrentoFilmfestival preview
21/04/2009 - Events
57th TrentoFilmfestival preview
The 57th Trento FilmFestival, the oldest film festival dedicated to mountains, exploration and adventure takes place in Trento from 21 April to 3 May. The films, evenings, main players and meetings and some thoughts about the pre-Festival...
The XVII Mezzalama stopped before the start, 17th edition postponed
The XVII Mezzalama stopped before the start, 17th edition postponed
The start of the Mezzalama Trophy scheduled for Sunday morning proved impossible due to deteriorating weather conditions which forced the organisers to postpone the start of more than 1000 athletes already at the start at Breuil - Cervinia. The classic ski mountaineering competition will probably be postponed a fortnight to...
XVII Mezzalama Trophy - 19 April 2009
16/04/2009 - Competitions
XVII Mezzalama Trophy - 19 April 2009
The 17th Mezzalama Trophy will take place on 19 April 2009. This classic ski mountaineering marathon takes place once every two years and dates back to 1933. As usual it starts at Breuil-Cervinia and finishes at Gressoney la Trinité via the Monte Rosa glacier and the summit of Monte Castore.
Lofoten climbing meeting by Norwegian Alpine Club
14/04/2009 - Alpinism
Lofoten climbing meeting by Norwegian Alpine Club
At the start of March the Norwegian Alpine Club (Norsk Tindeklub, NTK) hosted an international climbing meeting on the remote Lofoten islands. 40 climbers from 15 different nations attended the event designed to raise awareness of the climbing potential on the islands and to highlight the importance of Norway's immense...
Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and the South Face of Annapurna
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and the South Face of Annapurna
After failing to even reach Kangchenjunga and being forced therefore to change plans, Nives Meroi and Romano Benet are currently attempting the South Face of Annapurna in orderto climb their 12th 8000m peak. Prevailing conditions on the mountain continue to be difficult and our man in the field Manuel Lugli...
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
02/04/2009 - Climbing
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
The Czech Mountaineering Union has passed a bill, still to be accepted by the Ministry of Environment, approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone.

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