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The hidden melting of the Gorner glacier (Monte Rosa)
19/09/2024 - Environment
The hidden melting of the Gorner glacier (Monte Rosa)
For three decades, the La Venta Geographical Exploration Association has been exploring glaciers and glacier cave. After monitoring the Gorner glacier in 2020 and 2022, Alessio Romeo returned this year to check the health of the wonderful caves that formed within the ice, immediately above the rocky valley floor.
Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza
18/09/2024 - Alpinism
Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza
The report by Leonardo Gheza who, earlier this summer with Luca Ducoli, established the multi-pitch 'Eclissi' (8a, 280m) on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites). This is Gheza's second new route here after 'Monologica', first ascended in 2023 with Angelo Contessi.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
13/09/2024 - Climbing
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl have all repeated 'Seventh Direction' in the Rätikon, Austria. The 220m 8c multipitch on Drusenfluh was first ascended in 2022 by Alex Luger.
Video: Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn climb El Capitan's El Niño ground-up
11/09/2024 - Climbing
Video: Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn climb El Capitan's El Niño ground-up
Watch American climbers Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn making a ground-up free repeat of El Niño - Pineapple Express (5.13c, 25 pitches)⁣ on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
Katherine Choong makes first female ascent of Zahir (8b+, 300m) at Wenden
05/09/2024 - Climbing
Katherine Choong makes first female ascent of Zahir (8b+, 300m) at Wenden
Swiss climber Katherine Choong has made the first female ascent of Zahir (8b+, 300m) at Wenden.
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
04/09/2024 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher make first repeats of 'The Gift' in Rätikon
Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl have made the first repeats of The Gift (8c, 350m) on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
28/08/2024 - Alpinism
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
On August 9, 2024, Switzerland's Dani Arnold and Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed Einserkofel - Cima Una, Zwölferkofel - Croda dei Toni and Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Sexten Dolomites in a single day. A long enchainment via three big north faces, which the pair have...
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
27/08/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Italian mountaineers Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have etablished a new route on Sckem Braq, Karakorum, Pakistan. 900 meters high, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Alex Megos climbs Change (9b+) at Flatanger in just 5 days
23/08/2024 - Climbing
Alex Megos climbs Change (9b+) at Flatanger in just 5 days
German climber Alexander Megos has repeated Change, the 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway established by Adam Ondra in 2012 and hitherto repeated by only Stefano Ghisolfi in 2020 and Seb Bouin in 2022.
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
19/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
  • Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are descending to 6100m where they will be rescued by Pakistani military helicopters
  • Russian mountaineer Sergey Nilov is reported missing on Gasherbrum IV after a serac collapsed. Climbing partners Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are injured and awaiting evacuation.
  • Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)
    16/08/2024 - Alpinism
    Cric e Croc, new rock climb on Rognon Vaudano below Dent du Géant (Mont Blanc massif)
    Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra, together with Giovanna Mongilardi, have made the first ascent of 'Cric e Croc'. The 6-pitch rock climb is graded 6b+ max and is located on Rognon Vaudano, the cliff located below Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif dedicated to Davide...
    Tre Cime di Lavaredo 'Space Vertigo' repeated by Felix Kiem, Patrick Tirler
    14/08/2024 - Alpinism
    Tre Cime di Lavaredo 'Space Vertigo' repeated by Felix Kiem, Patrick Tirler
    Felix Kiem and Patrick Tirler have made the first repeat of 'Space Vertigo' on Cima Ovest at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The young alpinists from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed the route ground-up from 23- 25 July 2024. The 710m, IX+/X- multipitch was first ascended by...

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