Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma at the top of their climbing game
After Thursday’s news about Keita Kurakami has his ground-up, rope-solo ascent of an 8c+ as Mt. Futago - yes, you read that right, completely on his own and ground-up - here’s some further news about Japanese climbers, namely from Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma.
At the age of 50, ever-green Yuji Hirayama has managed to make the first ascent of his Time Machine, a project at the historic Gozeniwa crag he sent after 22 months of projecting and for which he now puts forward the grade 8c+.
Hirayama has been a prime player in rock climbing as of the mid-80s. His climbs are simply too many to list comprehensively, but the following are certainly worth mentioning: his fast repeat of The Phoenix in Yosemite at the age of 17 in 1986, his redpoint of Les Specialistes in the Verdon in 1988 (at the time considered one of the hardest climbs in the world), his astounding on-sight attempt on The Salathé on El Capitan in Yosemite in 1997 (even today considered one of the most important ascents of its kind), four speed records on The Nose up El Capitan, overall victory in the 2000 Lead World Cup as well as two Rock Master victories. And of course the world’s first 8c onsight in 2004, on White Zombi in the Baltzola cave in Spain.
Hirayama’s friend Sachi Amma, after putting up Japan’s first 9b last year, has now redpointd his third route of these difficulties. Amma travelled to Spain at the end of last year and returned this spring to send Stoking the Fire, the immense stamina plod through the steep Santa Linya grotto in Spain freed in 2013 by Chris Sharma and repeated by Adam Ondra (2016) and Jakob Schubert (2018). Winner of the Lead World Cup in both 2012 and 2013, Amma then decided to concentrate in climbing outdoors and after a flurry of 9a+ sent his first 9b in 2015, Fight or Flight at the nearby Spanish limestone outcrop Oliana.