Two new sport climbing crags in Sardinia

Samugheo in Sardinia now boasts two new crags, one of which, Apotheosis, is in my opinion one of the most beautiful on the entire island. Apotheosis was bolted alone by Marco Bussu but, as he himself points out, the hardest thing was not bolting the new climbs but sorting out the base of the cliff and the path! Marco wishes to thank Cinzia Puggioni who immediately believed in the potential of this sector and who gave a helping hand. Apotheosis was taken by storm in recent months especially by climbers from the continent, and all routes have now been freed including the hardest of all, Apotheosis 7c+, by Simone Sarti. The crag has been confirmed as a wonderful winter climbing destination.

The second, much easier crag, is located just before Apotheosis and has been called "La tana delle Volpi”, the foxes den, by Jose Arneris who developed the crag. All route names are written at the base. The access paths have improved considerably over the years thanks to the climbers from Oristano and also Mekkey, the local shepherd who knows all about the local climbing scene… La Tana delle Volpi is located just beyond the crag L’Anfiteatro (see my guidebook Pietra di Luna) while Apotheosis is located shortly afterwards, on a steep descent.

It’s worth remembering that the refuge Rifugio Castello Medusa is located above the crag and, on request, can offer accommodation for groups at the weekends.

Accommodation
Rifugio Castello di Medusa
15 beds - open if booked in advance
for info call 3466942761v – info@geolander.net
Facebook: Rifugio Castello Medusa

SECTOR TANA DELLE VOLPI
1 - Capre imberbi (5a)
2 - Gatto selvaggio (5c)
3 - Supercorvo (5b)
4 - Sirbone elettrico (6a)
5 - Pasquale Agnello (5b)
6 - Donnole e Uomoli (5c)
7 - Amiche volpi (5a)

SECTOR APOTEOSI
1 - Defendemos l’allegria (6a)
2 - Day by day (6b)
3 - Divus Claudius (6b)
4 - Poker d’Archi (7a/7a+)
5 - Il lungo, il largo e il pacioccone (7b)
6 - Capitan and crew (7a+)
7 - Apoteosi (7c+)
8 - Non è mai troppo tardi per sognare (7c)
9 - Don’t worry be…stemmia (7a+)
10 - Ercole (7a+)
11 - E’ più facile spezzare un atomo che arrivare a fine giornata senza bestemmiare (7b)
12 - 100 giorni all’alba (7a)
13 - Willy l’orbo (7a+)
14 - Chester Copperpot (6b)
15 - L’imperatore Augusto (6b+)

Guidebook
Pietra di Luna Falesie by Maurizio Oviglia (2012), Fabula Editore. The newest sectors are not included in the guidbook but details can be found on facebook or by asking at the refuge.

by Maurizio Oviglia