Silvio Reffo climbs two 8c+ in a day at Nago, Arco

They really do exist, the no-gravity days. Days when you seem so light you remain glued to everything. They happen rarely, almost never, perhaps even only once in a lifetime, but when they do they're so beautiful you never forget them. This is exactly what happened last Monday at Arco to Silvio Reffo, more precisely at Nago where the young Italian climber managed to send not one but two 8c+ on the same day, Bucking Bronco and Warbeast. Two short and intense routes which, added to his first Italian 8c flash, bodes well for the upcoming Lead competitions.

The fact that there are 8c+ routes at the historic Nago crag isn't common knowledge and, in truth, is fairly recent. German climber Markus Bock needs thanking for this since during his visits from the Frankenjura he evidently enjoyed far more than a simple family picnic. Bearing this in mind, Reffo states on his blog: "It's amazing how such a famous crag, which is over 30-years old, suddenly has some hard natural new routes. Perhaps times are changing and a modern approach might bring with it a new era of sport climbing, in particular to Arco. Perhaps the time has come to return to Arco and valourise it further, bringing it to the forefront once again. There is still plenty of potential and perhaps the birthplace of sport climbing might enjoy a second moment of glory with so much enthusiasm, motivation and NATURAL hard routes (as Manolo, Mariacher and Bassi did at the time). I'd like to thanks Markus Bock who managed to see this rock face with different eyes and provide Arco with these beautiful and hard new routes."

TOPO: climbing at Nago, Arco