Rocca Miloro, sport climbing in Italy's Val di Susa
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Paolo Seimandi
The lower Val di Susa is one of the cradles of Italian sport climbing, on a par with the area around Arco. At first sight it doesn’t seem as if its full of cliffs but every now and then something new comes along, even when many believed (for decades) that all had been discovered and climbed. Evidently, due to the fact that sport climbing has deep roots here, the locals have a strong tradition and deep drive to continuously look for something new, and this is certainly positive.
Particularly praiseworthy and noteworthy is when old crags are restored to their former glory and no longer consigned to oblivion, forgotten by all. Rocca Miloro is a shining example and, I have to admit, I thought I was pretty clued up about (almost) everything here in the valley but I had never heard of it. It’s located right above the historic crag Borgone, where Gian Carlo Grassi equipped the first routes at the end of the seventies.
Bolted by Diego Cordola in 1992, Rocca Miloro has now been completely rebolted by Stefano Lacastellana who also added some new routes. At present there are about 20 climbs (more than 35 m long, an 80 m rope) is recommended on splendid granite gneiss, generously bolted, facing the sun and at an altitude of circa 1000 m. Stefano also made the first ascent of the hardest climb, the beautiful crack called of Avanguardie del Futurismo (7c +), undoubtedly the most captivating line of the crag The only drawback is the long drive up to the crag. But, as they expression goes, "Paris is worth a mass!”
I would like to thank Stefano Lacastellana who will share more news with us in the future.
