Monte Brione, Arco: Via Giopia. By Paolo Calzà

Many years ago I only thought about free climbing and I examined this face with the aim of... climbing it free, but I immediately realised this was impossible. I gave up on that idea, but the face attracted be so much that I began to climb it. It was choss, nothing compared to the usual rock in the Sarca Valley, and so after a few metres I gave up. But the seed had been sown and I returned.
This time with two friends, Mauro* and Lino*.

That year Mauro and I had climbed a great deal, repeating plenty of routes, establishing new ones, Rosengarten, Vallaccia, Cima d’Asta in the Lagorai massif. We always had great fun, I learnt a lot especially since... I was slow, really slow while he was as fast as lightening at doing everything, absolutely everything... a man of few words, he continued to say "Come on Trota, let's get it done".
Legendary Mauro.

That grey and damp autumn we climbed the route, including the roof that we called La Mansarda, the attic. Mauro climbed it, with all the tricks of the trade, especially at the end where he ran out the pegs. The last pitch led to a trench from the First World War, then we abseiled off.

Many years passed and no one repeated the route. One day a friend who I'd often met at Walter's* shop phoned me, he was called Davide* and he told me he'd like to repeat it so I gave him all the beta. After his ascent he called me again and asked if he could reequip it and that the Mansarda pitch was outstanding, I told him I'd be glad if he did, but then...
That summer Davide fell and...

Every time I drive past I see the Mansarda and remember him.
And Mauro... how many things we did together, with his frenzy, the same one which took him away.
I always drive past, remembering Mauro and Davide, two people bound by the same love to this face.

Danny* was about to close the Refuge and he told me he'd like to go climbing, I suggested we reequip Via Giopia, also because the weather was poor and at least like that we'd remain dry.
We reequipped it all in a few afternoons, it's now got stainless steel bolts, including the belays, and is there, ready to be repeated.
So those who want to try to climb, upside down through a 12m, perhaps even bigger, roof, all you need to repeat it are those comfy aiders. To experience the great small void.

Greeting from Paolo 'Trota' Calzà and Danny

*Mauro Giovanazzi, Lino Celva, Davide Pinamonti, Walter Gobbi, Danny Zampiccoli


TOPO: Via Giopia, Monte Brione, Arco