Mari Augusta Salvesen repeats 'The Zone' (E9) at Curbar, UK

Right at the end of 2024 Mari Augusta Salvesen repeated The Zone at Curbar Edge in England's Peak District. In doing so, the top all-round climber from Norway joined the select few women climbers who have mastered E9 in the UK; for many years this grade represented pretty much the upper echelon of British trad climbing, and even today it still sits close to what is deemed physically and psychologically possible.

The Zone tackles a seemingly blank, gently overhanging gritstone wall at Curbar Edge and was first climbed in 1998 by John Arran. Hard moves lead to a rest where the only protection, a cluster of 4 skyhooks, can be placed, after which there is delicate climbing back to the arete and up to the top of the crag.

Salvesen worked the moves on toprope first and, despite not being able to link the top section two days previously, followed her intuition and went for the headpoint. She placed the gear on lead, and this was tightened to a belay on the ground to ensure the skyhooks wouldn't rip in case of a fall.  Unlike some others who have repeated the route in the past, she did not downclimb to the ground but instead climbed it in one push. Commenting on her social media handle after the ascent, she explained "Psyched out of my mind. A confusing project. It lured me in but never quite gave in."

The first woman to climb British E9 was Hazel Findlay in 2011. Others who have followed suit include Emma Twyford (2013), Caroline Ciavaldini (2013), Eve Lancashire (2016), Barbara Zangerl (2016), Madeleine Cope (2018), Anna Hazlett (2021).

 

 

 

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