Katherine Choong makes first female ascent of Zahir (8b+, 300m) at Wenden

Swiss climber Katherine Choong has made the first female ascent of Zahir (8b+, 300m) at Wenden.
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Swiss climber Katherine Choong making the first female ascent of Zahir (8b+, 300m) at Wenden, Switzerland, 02/09/2024
Julien Nadiras

Katherine Choong has repeated Zahir, one of the hardest multipitch climbs in the Wendenstöcke above the Gadmertal valley in Switzerland. Established by Swiss climbers Iwan Wolf and Gunter Habersatter between 1996 and 2004, the 300m line was freed by the pair in 2006.

While the grade check in at 8b+, anyone who has climbed at Wenden can confirm that this number represents little more than the technical difficulties, since the long, exposed approach, run-out climbing and mountain ambient render this is full-on outing. To make things even more challenging, Choong climbed the route ecopoint style, ie she and her climbing partner Eline Le Menestrel approached the mountain using public transport and by bike.

Choong and Le Menestrel started working the route in mid-August and then, after 8 days of effort, on 2 September the pair woke up early and started climbing at around 6:15 am. The first two pitches, a 6a followed by an 8a, went smoothly but then Choong ground to a halt on 8b+ pitch. After 3 failed attempts she felt she had missed her chance, as fatigue set in, the sun had hit the face, the weather forecast for the next days looked bleak. Somehow though she summoned up all strength and, after resting until 12:30 pm, managed to redpoint the crux pitch. The remaining 5 pitches (7c, 7a+, 7a+, 7b, 6c) are no walk-over and remain a physical and psychological test, but the 32-year-old kept it togther and summited at 6pm. At 9:50 pm they were safely back at the parking lot, "exhausted but with a big smile on our face."

It is worth noting this was Choong's first-ever visit to Wenden and, consequently, her first route on this bulletproof limestone. There can be no doubt that she will return in the future.

 
 
 
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A post shared by Katherine Choong (@choongkatherine)




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