Climbing in Sardinia: October update by Maurizio Oviglia
Modern multi-pitch routes
On the highly popular VII pillar of Doloverre at Surtana Antonio Basolu and Piero Fancello have made the first ascent of "Semper Onestu", 6a+, 5 well-bolted pitches and, needless to say, up beautiful rock. Not far away, on Mount Oddeu, Michael Schaefer and friends have added a new line between the classic Compagni di Viaggio and Por el Pueblo Oprimido. 6 new pitches then join Compagni di viaggio, 6c according to the first ascentionists, 6b according to those who have already repeated the route. The route offers 6a obligatory climbing, with ample and excellent (12mm) bolts, while the rock is splendid to say the least. The route is called "Bang Boom Bang" and has all the hallmarks to become another instant classic. On nearby Punta Cusidore Corrado Pibiri, Tom Krull and Fabio Erriu put up "Prcek": 8 pitches up to 6c weave their way up the extreme left-hand side of this superb bastion. Excellent limestone, as always, and some trad gear is needed to back up the in-situ bolts
Trad climbing
Some news from Capo Pecora, the sanctuary of the new trad climbing movement on Sardinia, and from Jurassic Park located on the opposite side of the island. At Capo Pecora Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia continued their exploration of Terra Promessa, a circa 60m face of beautiful granite which translates as the Promised Land. "Unplugged" and "Cuorediluna" were established on the same day, the former offers three pitches up to 6a, the latter boasts beautiful crack climbing up to 6b+. Marco Marrosu, Isabella Zuddas, Francesca Marongiu, Daniele Ara and Giacomo Satta added a new route to Big Ben with difficulties in the region of 6a.
Jurassic Park on the other hand is now home to Hirundos-auro, a beautiful new route with 5 short pitches put up by the usual suspects, Oviglia and Erriu: 90m, 6c+, all trad except for the bolt belays. The route climbs excellent quality orange granite, marked by a series of small cracks, and breaches a roof which houses numerous sea birds...
Returning to Surtana, this time on the XII pillar, C. Malomo, L. Cervini and B. Vitale have established the 100m high "Serra Orrios" to the left of "Cortes Apertas". With difficulties up to VI+, the route has in-situ gear only in the hardest sections and is dedicated to Gianfranco Spanu from Dorgagli.
Thanks to: Michael Schaefer, Corrado Pibiri, Antonio Basolu, Marco Marrosu and Bruno Vitale
by Maurizio Oviglia