Cesar Grosso sends Pure Dreaming 9a at Arco
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Michele Caminati
After a few weeks of attempts I finally sent my first 9a, Pure Dreaming at the widely overhanging sector Il Pueblo at Massone, Arco.
The route was bolted by Alfredo Webber in 2017 and freed by Adam Ondra in 2018. The first 5 bolts are shared with the classic Reini’s Vibes (8c/+), after which it continues directly upwards, to the left of Reini's. Just after this "junction" a kneebar allows for a good no-hands, before 14 really intense moves lead to the final crux. Exiting the roof us done via 6 very intense and physical moves, past distant holds and a huge swing controlled with a three-finger pocket a small crimp with your right hand. There’s a jug after the roof where the difficulties are over and, after a rest, you climb a 6c to the chain.
Conditions at Arco aren’t really ideal at the moment for a difficult project and for 3 days I arrived early, at 6 am, to climb in cool temperatures. The day I sent it I arrived early, too, but after falling off the last move I then did the actual redpoint later that afternoon. What a great feeling! After having competed for 23 years, now that I have just stopped taking part in climbing competitions I can dedicate myself 100% to rock climbing outdoors.
by Cesar Grosso
TOPO: Massone, Arco
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