Bouldering in Corsica

Corsica is a land of boulders, it’s incontestable. Laid close to the sea, buried away in an impenetrable scrub or covered by moss under oak trees, they are everywhere. So, logically, bouldering is an old activity: climbers such as Pierre Acquaviva, Pierre Griscelli or Pierre Pietri have explored every hidden corner of the island for years. However, one can say that the sport really took off at the start of the new millennium, when media attention turned to Capineru. This was followed by cleaning missions of the island's interior and during this period, the works carried out by Éric Biancarelli, Bernard Choulet Menguy, François Vecchi and, more recently Sébastien Curnier and Cyril Salze have been fundamental.

Gradually, new spots have been discovered and made accessible, always with the same concern by those who developed them: create the least impact possible. Which translates into no massive scrub clearing, no trees cut down needlessly, no excessive excavations, etc. Maintaining the original wild character is key: one can find few signs on the actual rock and access is sometimes difficult due to the thick scrub. When boulders are located under trees one has to share the rock with moss, especially in spring. But this only adds to the charm of climbing in Corsica!

In 2010 Olivier Broussouloux and Laurence Guyon published a complete guidebook to bouldering in Corsica. The new 2014 issue now includes new sectors: Punta Spanu and Tramariccia near Calvi, Calanche de Piana and, in particular, the new spot Plateau Alzu in the mountains close to Corte, a idyllic invitation to bouldering between the valleys of Restonica and Tavignano. A total of 26 sectors are presented, including the now famous Pianotolli and Valdu di Saltu, with GPS, sketches and well detailed access maps to avoid getting lost in the bush. The book also includes beautiful portfolios and portraits of local climbers.

Valdu di Saltu
Rock climbing in Valdu di Saltu has a long history! It started 10 years ago when the urban district put in an order to valorize its natural patrimony. Éric Biancarelli and Jean Michel Bordeaux are at that time appointed to clear, clean and create a boulder area. Then, because of a sporadic frequentation, the moss takes again its rights. Today, one have to thank Estelle Bordes, Nathalie Bruschet, Sébastien Curnier and Cyril Salze: their huge work allows us to climb in one of the most beautiful spot of Corsica. More than 200 problems, large variety of styles and difficulties, in a magical wood where everyone can enjoy the day!

Punta Spanu
Very busy during summer, Punta di Spanu offers a lovely view onto the Gulf of Calvi and a countryside full of boulders close to the seashore. We have to admit that in high season it’s hard to find a place for your towel and even harder for your crashpad! Out of season though this place is very pleasant, with flat landings and lots of small boulders, perfect for children. Note that you can arrive here on Corsica’s small train, the Trinichellu, by getting off at "Orso Longo". A good way to combine an outing, bouldering and a dip in the sea!

Plateau Alzu
During the summer of 2013 Vlado Cviklinski, the local climber and shepherd, found this nice spot located high above the sea and began to clean the boulders. It’s still very much work in progress. There's the "minor detail" of its two-hour walk-in, but this really is a dream world located between the Restonica and Tavignano valleys. Truly awesome! High granite boulders in the forest and countless holds of all shapes and sizes (knobs, pockets, slopers…). And after climbing, you can enjoy the delicious Corsican cheese produced by the ewes of the Sabiani herd!

Check out the brand new Corsican Bouldering Guidebook for more. Information and online orders: corsica-bloc.fr


TOPO: Valdu di Saltu, Corsica