Watch Beat Kammerlander climbing WoGü in the Rätikon, Switzerland
Beat Kammerlander is one of the legends of this sport, known above all for his testing alpine sport climbs established ground-up and with long run-outs between the bolts.
The first ascent of New Age (8a+) in 1989 on on the IV Kirchlispitze in the Rätikon massif represented a milestone in the development of alpine sport climbing, and the line ushered in a new level of difficulty, style and ethics of which Kammerlander was a precursor.
In the '80s and '90s the Rätikon massif was where he pushed the envelope, creating masterpieces such as Unendliche Geschichte (first ascent 1990, first free ascent 1991), Silbergeier (first ascent 1993, first free ascent 1994) and then, the hardest of all, WoGü.
Located just to the right of Unendliche Geschichte, this 250m line was established by the Austrian mountain guide in 1998 but although he came very close to freeing the route, in the end the difficulties proved too extreme. The first redpoint was carried out in 2008 by 15-year-old Adam Ondra, who suggested 8c max in addition to the obligatory 8a+.
It goes without saying that the route was dedicated to another climbing legend, Wolfgang Güllich, who died prematurely in a car accident in 1992.
Info: www.beatkammerlander.com