Anna Torretta and the Zodiac
In October 2003 Anna Torretta climbed the Zodica, El Capitan, Yosemite in 6 days and 5 nights and met the Huber brothers making the first free ascent.
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 “Zodiac was my first aid route and the first route I climbed alone.” This is how Anna Torretta presents her most recent ascent on El Capitan, in Yosemite Valley. Her adventure required 6 days and 5 nights out on the wall and, like all great journeys, was an intensely personal experience. With dicoveries and unrepeatable meetings... for those who don't yet know, in this sea of rock Anna met none other than the Huber brothers, attempting the free ascent of the Zodiac. We thought it would be nice to publish Anna's account of this meeting, where two different climbing styles and speeds converged high on El Capitan. And with Anna's words we are treated to a brief insight into the Huber's ascent, a "behind the scenes" that demoonstrates how much there is, fun and original, in a great first ascent. El Capitan, Zodiac On and off the wall by Anna Torretta I abseil down towards the brothers resting on the only ledge on the entire route. Alex is reading a book, Thomas is trying to catch some sleep. I try... to not disturb them. I stuff the last things into my haulbag and start to close my portaledge. “Where are my climbing shoes, where are my climbing shoes!” Thomas asks troubled; he looks about, but can't see them. “They were here!”- he points to my haulbag - “you've put them in them for sure” he says, and looks at me. “I only put away the things that were clipped to the carabiner” I reply. Alex intervenes cooly “they'll be in our rucksack”- land starts looking for them. But the shoes aren't there either. the atmosphere heats up. Alex reassures “they didn't fall down”. I heave a sigh of relief, I didn't drop anything! “So they're in your haulbag” Thomas insists, “empty it completely!”. I obey, but the shoes are nowhere to be found. I turn around to check beneath the portaledge … suddenly Thomas locates them: clipped to the back of my harness…! I can't remember having taken the shoes, I was immersed in my own world, moving automatically. Two days earlier I had joked with a Swissman I met on another belay "what happens if we meet the Hubers on the same pitch?" The question had remained unanswered. by Anna Torretta Zodiac FA: 1972 First ascentionist C. Porter Length: 540 m (16 pitches) Grade: A2 5.7 For many the Zodiac represents the first steps on El Cap, and in effect the route acts as a great . Exposed, beautiful, on excellent rock and not too long, the route suffers consequently from overcrowding. But, as the saying goes, one never forgets the first time, so it's well worth the wait. Alexander and Thomas Huber made the first free ascent in October 2003.
Above: Anna Torretta at the top of the Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite. | |||||||
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22/11/2024
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