'Altman' 8c, 1st repeat at the hands of Richard Colombo

Richard Colombo makes the first repeat of Altman 8c in Val Masino, Italy
The Italian (21/06/2001) Richard Colombo has made the first repeat of Altman, a fantastic 8 meter granite 8c freed in 1998 by Simone Pedeferri at Remenno, Val Masino. We asked Richard to tell us a bit about ‘Altman’… This is what he had to say:

'Altman'
This is an explosive and aleatory pitch, a mix of power and "sensitivity" that is hard to find on most routes. The first section is comprised of three powerful sequences on precarious holds... This is followed by an O.K. rest, or rather a series of large moves that then lead to the final powerful section before getting established on the top of the boulder.

Simone Pedeferri climbed the route in a slightly different way (using a couple of different holds), but for 90% of the route there's no other way: either you climb it in that way, or you don't! It's too tenuous. As on most granite routes it's definitely worth waiting for the evening for the temperature to cool down and a light breeze that takes away the humidity.

 

Richard Colombo on 'Pacet 90', 8a, Scarenna
arch. Richard Colombo

In his free time Richard Colombo runs the website
www.climb.valtellina.net.


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