Åland: Niccolò Ceria discovers the boulders in Finland

Just like many other crags in Northern Europe Aland certainly isn't the world's most famous climbing area, but from the stories I'd heard I knew that not only would this place amaze me, but that it also held great potential for high quality bouldering. The climbing area is located in the northern part of the archipelago, as was our campsite that happens to be the last building before the boulders begin.

We arrived after a long, 15-hour journey and as soon as we got out of the car I knew it was going to be good. The campsite was deserted, as was the rest of the island. Located on the top of the hill, the campsite offers spectacular views onto the islets, bays and forest; there was no noise, apart from cawing seagulls. This seemed like heaven, even better than we'd expected. The next morning we were eager to start bouldering and, although the approaches are long, they're a pleasant stroll along the flat paths and through the forests.

The area is split into three main sectors, all wild, immersed in nature, in cool air and that particular daylight so typical of this area where the light always remains the same, regardless of whether its midday or 7 o'clock in the evening. Set in this extraordinary landscape, the boulders seemed unique and very physical, with good quality rock in all sectors. Despite being granite, the style of climbing is somewhat different from what I'm used to due to rock formations and holds that line the numerous roofs and steep overhangs. Changing climbing styles is always motivating and some problems really amazed me.

One of the problems that left its mark is definitely Nalle Hukkataival's "Living the dream", a triangular roof, tall and impressive. I was immediately taken in by its grandeur, purity and the complexity of the individual moves, but also the line itself that works its way past some compression moves up the sides of this massivetriangle. After two days I managed the send and therefore succeeded on the main goal of the trip.

I also wanted to find a new, inspiring line. Brushing and trying something new, previously hidden below the moss, is always challenging for several reasons: you add something to area and the connection you get with that problem becomes more intense and personal as you create something that you'd previously only imagined in your mind.

At Kasviken, the most popular sector, I happened to see one side of a huge boulder which seemed very hard, but maybe just about possible. It was perfect for me: stand-start, long moves and my favourite style of climbing, namely dynos and large compression moves up slopers. Once brushed, cleaned and chalked, I realised that it would probably go. Fortunately I managed to send it just before some days of rain and this was certainly the most symbolic moment of my trip of this experience. "Nitro" is the name of my new problem, morphological, physical and height-dependent.

During our 10-day trip we discovered that most mid-grade problems tend to offer excellent rock and superb moves. Rudy and Riccardo, my two climbing partners, managed to send everything they set their sights on and, like me, were taken in by what Aland offers. Despite being relatively unknown, this place is a unique gem.

by Niccolò Ceria

INFO
From Stockholm take the ferry to the Åland islands and continue on to the campsite at Soltuna, where we stayed. This is perfectly located for the boulders and also offers some of the “cheapest” accommodation. The guidebook can be purchased at the bar and includes detailed topos of all boulders. For further information check out: 27crags.com/areas/aland and www.soltuna.ax


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