The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl

Earlier this month Britain’s Tim Emmett and Slovenia’s Klemen Premrl completed what they believe to be the hardest single pitch ice climb in the world, Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada. The 40m route tackles the steepest section of the huge cave and overhangs a staggering 30 meters with the crux right at the very end, reason for which they believe it warrants WI 13.

Emmett told planetmountain.com "it’s got some really big moves right at the end and you’re almost totally horizontal. Just getting there without being totally pumped is a real challenge, then you’ve got to dig in even deeper." What makes this route so particular, apart from its difficulties, is that almost all the placements are on ice. Emmett explained "you have to climb very precisely on really steep terrain and use the placements very carefully, you can’t just grab them and swing on because you’ll probably rip them since a lot of them are very thin. Body position and good technique is key, also in keeping your feet on the ice and not cutting loose."

Tim Emmett thanks: Petzl, SCARPA, adidas eyewear, Edelweiss, Mountain Hardwear,
Klemen Premrl thanks: Black Diamond, La Sportiva