Sivridağ, new trad climb in Anatolia, Turkey

Sivridağ is a great limestone massif, a mere 10km away from Antalya in south Turkey, by the Mediterranean sea, and just 15km as the crow flies from the now world famous Geyikbayırı climbing area. The east face of Sivridağ is essentially a non-bolt area and hosts at least trad 30 routes that range in height from 130m up to 500m and reach difficulties up to VIII- (UIAA).

Sivridağ was one of the first traditional climbing areas in the Antalya region and it was initially developed by local climber Yılmaz Sevgül from year 1996 onwards. Yılmaz, himself one of the indomitable climbers in Turkey, worked tirelessly at exploring and establishing rock climbs in the region and we owe much to him for his fine guidebook and his fine first ascents.

The summit of Sivridağ  is 1413m high, and although it is not one of the highest peaks in the range (which soar to 3000m altitude), it hosts the largest number of routes anywhere in the coastal and central Beydağları range. The existing trad routes rarely go to summit of Sivridağ because of the lower angled and easier, vegetated and broken terrain that characterizes the last portion of the east face. Another reason why climbs rarely top out is because the return down the other side of the mountain (the ordinary route to the top) takes very long time and great effort.
  
As of today, there are around 84 routes in 9 different sectors which, except for only a few sparsely bolted alpine-sports type routes, are all trad climbs. The lengths differ greatly from single pitch to 10 pitches. As mentioned, only a few routes go all the way to the summit and these are mostly full one day, scrambling type ascents. Sivridag offers quality climbing on different types of rock, but the peculiar feature is very good, exposed climbing on steep friction slabs, with water runnels and thin tufas. It would be fair to say the best limestone is to be found at Sivridağ.

This mountain is important to all trad climbers in Turkey because, apart from the great climbing, it is so close to civilization and yet set in such a wild and beautiful ambient. You can climb short or long, easy or difficult routes and still go back to home to enjoy a glass of wine in the evening after a day's fine climbing. Furthermore, the full potential for this and its surrounding areas is still to be fully explored. The area, except the well-known sport-climbing crags, has been declared a bolt-free region.

On 4 April Rauf Osman Pınarbaşı and I made the first ascent of Punisher; 450m high, it climbs beautiful water worn slabs, very sharp holds and grey colored walls with good belays. General difficulty is grade V, with two pitches of VI. The route follows the natural line that climbs the so-called ‘teardrop-shaped slab’ and offers good, enjoyable and exposed climbing all the way, with two terraces in between. It ends on top of a detached tower.


TOPO: Punisher, Sivridağ, Beydağları massif


BEST TIME OF YEAR
Winter, spring and autumn are good to climb in Antalya. Summer is extremely hot and humid for rock climbing.

GETTING THERE
From Antalya take the Altınyaka road to the village of Gedeller for 10 km and then take the branching road to the left for 2km, that would take you into a cluster of newly built villas. The trail starts by a water source. Follow the marked path into the forest, that takes to the bottom of the wide east face of Sivridağ. The approach from the end of road to the bottom of the route takes maximum 25 minutes. Aim for the big, grey, prominent slab on the middle high portion of the face.

BIBLIOGRAPHY
1- Antalya Traditional Rock Climbing Guide, by Yılmaz Sevgül ISBN 978-605-86935-0-0
2- A Rock Climbing Guide to Antalya, by Öztürk Kayıkçı ISBN 978-9944-5709-0-9