Silvo Karo, Luka Lindic add Franček Knez memorial route to Široka peč
Representing two entirely different generations but nevertheless Slovenia’s finest, Silvo Karo and Luka Lindic teamed up on 12 August to climb the striking pillar on the North Face of Široka peč, a wild limestone peak in the Martuljek group of the Julian Alps.
"The north face of Široka peč its a famous face in Slovenia" explained Lindic "but beyond the Slovenian border practically no one knows it. It’s known mostly for its really loose rock, and consequently all the routes are a serious alpine outing. I believe there is no single bolt on the wall and most of the routes are the work of the Slovenian climber who placed Slovenian alpinism on a "world map” in the 70s and 80s - Silvo Karo."
Lindic explained how the climb came about "Exactly 10 years ago I was lucky enough to climb with Silvo Karo for the first time. I dare to say he became one of my mentors from whom I’ve learned a lot. We kept a strong bound during all the years but somehow didn't climb so much in the mountains together anymore. Thats’ why I was super keen to tie into rope with him again and try to climb a new line he spotted on the mountain’s north face. When he first showed it to me I couldn't believe it hadn’t been climbed yet as it always follows the wall’s most obvious pillar / arete. Nowadays it’s extremely rare that such a line is still unclimbed."
Karo and Lindic climbed the 800m route in 10 hours. "I only recently climbed a very difficult route, End of Silence, so one might think that the grade VII (UIAA) climbing I encountered with Silvo might have been boring. On the contrary. I quickly needed to remember the art of climbing and placing protection on loose rock. Silvo’s long term climbing partner and Slovenian climbing legend Franček Knez was definitely a master of this kind of climbing. As is Silvo!"
Links
IG Luca Lindič, FB Luca Lindič, Arc'teryx
FB Silvo Karo, IG Silvo Karo, www.silvokaro.com, La Sportiva, Montura