1 / 1San Lorenzo new route
On 28 March Hervé Barmasse, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi and Giovanni Ongaro climbed a new mixed line up the grandiose and previously untouched North Face of San Lorenzo, Patagonia.
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Luca Maspes On 28 March Hervé Barmasse, Matteo Bernasconi, Lorenzo Lanfranchi and Giovanni Ongaro climbed a new mixed line up the grandiose and previously untouched North Face of San Lorenzo, Patagonia. The four members of the UP Trip Two Patagonia had hoped to make the first ascent of the extraordinary NE Face of the second highest mountain in the Patagonian Andes, but terrible conditions forced them to change plans and choose a line up the obvious snow gully on the North Face. This in turn led to a runnel and the right-hand side of the summit ice mushroom. Barmasse, Bernasconi, Lanfranchi and Ongaro dug a snowcave at the foot of the mountain and waited patiently for the right conditions. Despite unstable weather they set off on 27 March for the snowcave, which had collapsed in the meantime. They consequently dug another cave and set off at 6.00am the next morning with grey skies. They needed 7 hours to climb the gully and crux runnel which led to the summit. They descend immediately and at 23.00 were safely back in their ice cave. This successful ascent marked the end of the UP Trip Two Patagonia. The expedition had previoulsy attempted the immense NW Face of Cerro Piergiorgio, but this was abandoned when a rockfall hit basecamp on 22/02/2006. Only expedition leader Luca Maspes was in basecamp at the time but he miraculously walked away relatively unharmed. The other members were engaged on the wall where they had established 11 pitches of their Gringos Locos prior to the rockfall. For obvious reasons the expedition immediately evacuated basecamp and headed to San Lorenzo. UP TRIP TWO - PATAGONIA 2006 www.montagna.tv (project, team, diary and press releases from Patagonia) in collaboration with: EV-K2 CNR - FERRINO - MICO - GRIVEL - MATT.
Photo: San Lorenzo (arch. D. Fregona) |
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